Temperatures dropped overnight, but I stayed toasty in my merino layer and Feathered Friends Nano Swallow bag. The BD Light Saber bivvy bag made for posh accommodations. The wind shifted from Westerly to Easterly, perhaps driven by katabatic effect from the Quien Sabe, but it was gentle. And we got hit with smoke, which had … Continue reading Forbidden Peak via North Ridge Day 2
Paul Pottinger’s Adventures from the Top of the World
On January 17, at 6:32 AM, I received this text from my buddy Ann: “Paul – JM and I had a good dinner and talked about some fun climbs in the PNW next summer, namely the north or east ridge of forbidden – Justin I forget which one. Anyhow would you be able to join? … Continue reading Forbidden Peak via North Ridge Day 1
Mailbox is my usual training climb. I have not been up it in months, however, due to work. I was stunned to realize that a trough of high pressure air was likely to protect the mid-Cascade range from precipitation on Friday… when my son was on spring break. We had a chance to get up … Continue reading Mailbox with Matthew
Finally, the alpine exposure we were looking for. Warm winds… rushing water… melting ice… dry tooling… the complete package. Until next year, Ouray. May your snowfall be deep, your ice be burly, your sheep be bighorned, and your hospitality be warm–as always. Thanks to our amazing guides!
Our plan: Modest alpine climbing outside the park, starting on the Bird Camp Mine Road. Our reality: Crowded routes, many of which were only marginally in condition. Our response: Climbing in the park!