{"id":1676,"date":"2016-03-26T04:22:59","date_gmt":"2016-03-26T11:22:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=1676"},"modified":"2017-01-15T16:10:52","modified_gmt":"2017-01-16T00:10:52","slug":"everest-the-rematch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/03\/everest-the-rematch\/","title":{"rendered":"Everest: The Rematch"},"content":{"rendered":"

I am headed back to climb Mt. Everest tomorrow.\u00a0 <\/span>Here are answers so some of the questions I\u2019ve gotten in recent months.<\/p>\n

Really?<\/em>\u00a0 <\/span>Really.\u00a0 <\/span>You are really going back there?\u00a0 <\/span>Why not cut your losses and stop while you are ahead?
\n<\/strong>My goal has not changed.\u00a0 <\/span>The earthquake was an unprecedented freak act of nature\u2026 It caused a huge calamity, struck a major blow to the people of Nepal, and took the lives of many.\u00a0 <\/span>It was awful.\u00a0 <\/span>But\u2026 it has not changed my resolve one bit.<\/p>\n

How does your family feel about all this?
\n<\/strong>They love me (for some reason) and thus they support me fully, even if this obsession makes no sense to them.\u00a0 <\/span>I adore them more than I can ever say.\u00a0 <\/span>Strange to say, but being away for two months will be tougher on me than on them (they may feel differently).<\/p>\n

And your career? \u00a0 <\/span>How do you get this time off?
\n<\/strong>As before, wonderful and supportive colleagues have made it possible for me to take this leave of absence.\u00a0 <\/span>They are amazing.<\/p>\n

What\u2019s the plan for Everest 2.0?<\/strong>
\nThe plan is virtually the same as it was last time.\u00a0 <\/span>I will climb with International Mountain Guides (IMG)<\/a> hybrid team.\u00a0 <\/span>Our itinerary<\/a> is virtually the same as last time.<\/p>\n

Are you still planning to use supplemental oxygen?<\/strong>
\nYep.\u00a0 <\/span>Still in awe of those who do not.\u00a0 <\/span>And, still not eager to find out if I am one of the 5% who can pull it off.<\/p>\n

Who is on your team?<\/strong>
\nMany of my friends from last time are joining again, although some are not able to return for this season.\u00a0 <\/span>We will miss them very much.\u00a0 <\/span>But, this gives us a chance to make new friends too, which is always good.\u00a0 <\/span>As last time, this blog will be about my own personal experiences, and only include general info on my friends if they give their explicit permission.\u00a0 <\/span>For info on our expedition, please see the official IMG expedition blog<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Any changes to your training program this time?<\/strong>
\nYes.\u00a0 <\/span>I budgeted more time for training this year, and that is always a good thing.\u00a0 <\/span>I got the garage into shape for my workouts, which is much better for me than going to the gym.\u00a0 <\/span>I worked with the amazing sports medicine team at Husky Stadium<\/a> to address my chronic knee pain, and am stunned to report that their diagnosis and management plans were perfect: physical therapy WORKS, and I am now virtually pain free, for the first time in as long as I can recall.\u00a0 <\/span>This allowed me to push it pretty hard this year.\u00a0 <\/span>I am starting the trip 10 pounds lighter than last year, and with about 10 pounds more muscle on board.\u00a0 <\/span>I\u2019m defending a pulse ox of 85% while jogging at simulated 13,000 feet, with a 22 lb pack, at 30 degree incline and 50% resistance.\u00a0 <\/span>Not bad for a 47-year-old guy who works full time and lives at sea level.\u00a0 <\/span>Although I did not get out to the mountains as much as I would like this past year, the training climbs with my friends have been amazing.<\/p>\n

\"My<\/a>
My standard training route: 100 steps down the street from my house. Typical routine: 24 reps up & down.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Garage<\/a>
Garage reborn as a gym.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Top<\/a>
Top of South Early Winters Spire with John and Doug.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"On<\/a>
On top of Liberty Bell with Tom, Kim, and John.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"On<\/a>
On Forbidden Peak with John and Tom.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Huddling<\/a>
Huddling by the fire in Ouray with Andy and Kim.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Staying<\/a>
Staying hydrated while belaying Steven. Thanks, Kim.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Jim,<\/a>
Jim, Kim, and Steven on the ice.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Savoring<\/a>
Savoring the water ice at Ouray.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"San<\/a>
San Jacinto with Doug.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Did you sleep in that hypoxic tent again?<\/strong>
\nYes.\u00a0 <\/span>Since 1\/1\/16.\u00a0 <\/span>I think it helps.\u00a0 <\/span>I have maxed out my sleeping altitude at 13,000 feet, because for me going higher does impact my sleep architecture\u2026 tough to get up and train and work a full day after sleeping higher.<\/p>\n

Any new gear you are bringing?<\/strong>
\nMy kit is virtually the same as last time, very much standard issue IMG, just a few small tweaks based on my experiences last year. One nice new feature is a Delorme InReach satellite tracker, which I will use to track our progress on the climb\u2026 I can also text with it, in case connectivity is bad up there (which will certainly happen at some point). You can follow our progress on my MapShare Page<\/a>. \u00a0If you want details on my kit, please see my videos:<\/p>\n