{"id":1871,"date":"2016-03-29T07:25:12","date_gmt":"2016-03-29T14:25:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=1871"},"modified":"2018-01-22T05:21:55","modified_gmt":"2018-01-22T13:21:55","slug":"great-to-be-back","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/03\/great-to-be-back\/","title":{"rendered":"Great to be Back"},"content":{"rendered":"

Back to Tribuvahn at first light\u00a0 <\/span>The airport was inexplicably virtually empty, a complete change from 24 hours earlier, and a real surprise considering how many flights had been cancelled.\u00a0 <\/span>We went straight through security and waited only a few minutes until we hopped into a pickup truck and drove across the airport to the helicopter area.\u00a0 <\/span>I was pretty sure our bird was the same one that brought Blake and Sonam down from Camp 1 during the evacuation last year.\u00a0 <\/span>A subsequent check of the tail number confirmed my suspicion. It seemed auspicious somehow to return in that chopper.<\/p>\n

\"We
We are SO HAPPY to finally get to FLY! (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"This
This is why we love to take choppers! (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The Turkish Airways debacle: A gift that keeps on giving. At least the engines have been removed…. progress!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Excited!
Excited! (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Very,
Very, very excited. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Our
Our tail numbers today…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Blake's
The same chopper on April 27, 2015. (Photo: Blake Penson)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The weather in Kathmandu was dominated again by terrible air quality, and this dense smog persisted for a surprisingly long time during the 45 minute flight to Lukla.\u00a0 <\/span>Last year we had been treated to crystalline skies and the full sweep of the Himalayas.\u00a0 <\/span>This time we flew into a thick gloaming of brown soup that forced the pilot to thread a serpentine path between the hills, skimming a very short distance above the trees.\u00a0 <\/span>Finally, just before we reached Lukla, the mountains began to reveal themselves.<\/p>\n

\"How
How the pilot finds his way through this stuff is a mystery to me.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"This
This air quality is just heartbreaking. (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"This
This Will Be Awesome! (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim
Kim snaps a super selfie.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim's
Closeup of Kim’s awesome selfie… it’s an “ussie.”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The terraced farms of the Kathmandu valley rolls by… (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Siva
Siva and I are having a blast. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"We
We had to keep a low altitude to keep our bearings.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Loving
Loving it up here.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Ridgelines
Ridgelines coming into view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"DSC00311\"<\/p>\n

\"These
These mountains are so close that we need to look through the ceiling to find their summits.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lukla
Lukla comes into view. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Final
Final approach to Lukla. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

By the time we landed, I was profoundly happy.\u00a0 <\/span>Our friends greeted us right at the helicopter, including Tunang, Lakpah, and Mingma Tenzing.\u00a0 <\/span>It was wonderful to see our friends again after a year.<\/p>\n

Lukla looked almost unchanged from the last time I had seen it on May 5, 2015.\u00a0 <\/span>Still bustling, still nestled under impressive peaks on all sides\u2026 but, there seemed to be fewer westerners milling about on the streets.\u00a0 <\/span>If this turns out to be true\u2014and we are not sure yet\u2014it would be a mixed finding.\u00a0 <\/span>On one hand, for selfish reasons, we like having smaller crowds. \u00a0 <\/span>But, on the other hand, tourism is the lifeblood of the Khumbu economy, and so we are hopeful that things will pick up\u2026 right after we reach EBC.<\/p>\n

\"Lukla!
Lukla! (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Walking
Walking down the main drag of Lukla.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"DSC00325\"<\/p>\n

\"Signs
Signs of a healthy building boom in Lukla… building and rebuiliding are both evident here.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A stupa in Lukla. (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lots
Lots of gear to be had here…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Them's
Them’s good eatin.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The beautiful valley was shrouded in mist, which was a huge blessing because it spared us from the sun\u2019s heat.\u00a0 <\/span>However, it was a harbinger of some rough weather: Rain, rain, and more rain\u2026 and hail.\u00a0 <\/span>At one point we were pummeled with hail that stung like crazy, like a being blasted by a swarm of angry bees.\u00a0 <\/span>We made it to our lunch spot in Phak Ding and warmed up and tried to dry out a bit.<\/p>\n

\"Cristiano
Cristiano makes a confident entry.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Mingma
Mingma Tenzing looking back towards Lukla as we descend towards the Dudh Kosi river.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Tunang
Tunang is one of our awesome sherpa guides.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"This
This yak looks super chill.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Siva...
Siva… Kim… Tunang (AKA Captain Morgan)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cristiano
Cristiano and Jerry love it up here.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Why
Why are these kids so darn adorable?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A monastery sits high above the trail.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Horses
Horses feature prominently here… Yaks dominate higher up.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"These
These blossoms are out in full bloom.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Crossing
Crossing the first bridge of the day.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"So
So darn adorable!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Rhododendrons
Rhododendrons galore.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Adventure
Adventure has a new face: Cristiano.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"We
We share the road with all manner of beasts of burden.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Weather
Weather closes in on us.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The gloaming rises up the river… a chilly wind and hailstorm followed soon thereafter.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"After
After a soaking, our team pulls in to Phak Ding for a much needed hot lunch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"We
We sent this photo to our buddy Blake… He is our honorary team member in absentia.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Phak Ding is the traditional sleeping spot for the first day, but we had started so early that we wanted to make more progress, and headed up valley another two hours to the village of Monjo.\u00a0 <\/span>Along the way I was impressed by the rebuilding that has happened in the last 11 months.\u00a0 <\/span>A few structures were still\u00a0 <\/span>ruined, but many others were either repaired or totally replaced. One technique I did not notice the prior year involves timber frame homes clad in thin grey steel: weatherproof, and not at risk of shaking apart in another quake.<\/p>\n

\"A
A lull between waves of the deluge… (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim
Kim rocks the Dudh Kosi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"This
This dog became Kim’s new pet. She adopts a new one every day….<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"These
These blossom trees rival or surpass those we have in Seattle.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Justin
Justin checks out the section of trail that fell during the quake last year. (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"DSC00440\"<\/p>\n

\"Evidence
Evidence of rebuilding was evident along our trail.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Foul
Foul weather does not hold these stone masons back.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Some
Some of the structures are in great shape, built with fine craftsmanship and an eye towards being able to withstand another quake.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Some,
Some, not so much.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The water gets this beautiful hue due to tiny stone chips shed during glacial grinding of the granite above.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The bridges here are awesome.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cristiano
Cristiano on a bridge below Monjo… the landslide behind him dates to last year’s quake.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Our
Our drenching continues. (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Justin
Justin arrives with authority. (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

By the time we reached Monjo, we were cold, wet, and tired.\u00a0 <\/span>And yet\u2026 I felt so much stronger and more relaxed than last time.\u00a0 <\/span>Let\u2019s see if this trend continues\u2026.<\/p>\n

\"Hot
Hot tea makes everything better.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Word of the day: Fresh<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Back to Tribuvahn at first light\u00a0 The airport was inexplicably virtually empty, a complete change from 24 hours earlier, and a real surprise considering how many flights had been cancelled.\u00a0 We went straight through security and waited only a few minutes until we hopped into a pickup truck and drove across the airport to the … Continue reading Great to be Back<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1844,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1871","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-approach-trek","expedition-everest-2016"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nGreat to be Back - OSM Adventures<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/03\/great-to-be-back\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Great to be Back - OSM Adventures\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Back to Tribuvahn at first light\u00a0 The airport was inexplicably virtually empty, a complete change from 24 hours earlier, and a real surprise considering how many flights had been cancelled.\u00a0 We went straight through security and waited only a few minutes until we hopped into a pickup truck and drove across the airport to the … Continue reading Great to be Back →\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/03\/great-to-be-back\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"OSM Adventures\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2016-03-29T14:25:12+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-01-22T13:21:55+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/DSC04642.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"4912\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"3264\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Paul Pottinger\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/pottinger.net\\\/osm\\\/2016\\\/03\\\/great-to-be-back\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/pottinger.net\\\/osm\\\/2016\\\/03\\\/great-to-be-back\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Paul Pottinger\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/pottinger.net\\\/osm\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/52916489bad9029b353f31a6610a4646\"},\"headline\":\"Great to be Back\",\"datePublished\":\"2016-03-29T14:25:12+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-01-22T13:21:55+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/pottinger.net\\\/osm\\\/2016\\\/03\\\/great-to-be-back\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1484,\"commentCount\":9,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/pottinger.net\\\/osm\\\/2016\\\/03\\\/great-to-be-back\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/pottinger.net\\\/osm\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/03\\\/DSC04642.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Approach Trek\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/pottinger.net\\\/osm\\\/2016\\\/03\\\/great-to-be-back\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/pottinger.net\\\/osm\\\/2016\\\/03\\\/great-to-be-back\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/pottinger.net\\\/osm\\\/2016\\\/03\\\/great-to-be-back\\\/\",\"name\":\"Great to be Back - 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