{"id":2138,"date":"2016-04-03T08:48:22","date_gmt":"2016-04-03T15:48:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=2138"},"modified":"2018-02-25T14:04:14","modified_gmt":"2018-02-25T22:04:14","slug":"closing-a-circle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/04\/closing-a-circle\/","title":{"rendered":"Closing a Circle"},"content":{"rendered":"

Spectacular scenery and clear skies at the time of our departure from Tengboche this morning.\u00a0 <\/span>Chilly air soon became warm, and we made good progress.\u00a0 <\/span>In fact, I had to strip off my merino long underwear, to the delight of everyone.\u00a0 <\/span>I still think there is a market for quick-release long johns\u2026 why does no one agree\u2026?<\/p>\n

\"Tengboche
Tengboche is chilly in the shadow of Ama Dablam.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Once
Once sunshine hits, the plateau is warm and inviting.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Yiorgos
Yiorgos and Susan.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Jerry
Jerry geared up for the walk.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Rafa
Rafa and Tania.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Bob
Bob and Nicky.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Roger
Roger is raring to go.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim,
Kim, Eddie, and Siva champing at the bit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Bidding
Bidding adieu to our tea house.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"We
We move like a herd across the plains.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Down
Down into the rhododendrons.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Indoor
Indoor cook smoke is a huge concern here… the buildings sometimes leak smoke through cracks in the roof, without a meaningful chimney.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"DSC00862\"
The collapsed bridge… still here.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Teresa
Teresa captures my monkey-business shenanigans on the collapsed bridge. (Photo: Teresa Hagerty)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"DSC00865\"
Our crossing of the river, below Ama.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Looking
Looking back at Tengboche in the distance as we approach Pangboche.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The trail descends gently from the monastery ridge through rhododendron forests to the Imja Khola river.\u00a0 From there, it climbs gradually up to the village of Pangboche.<\/p>\n

\"A
A mani stone along the trail to Pangboche.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"DSC04889\"
Entering the green and spiritual oasis of Pangboche.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Thamsierku
Thamsierku rules this section of the valley. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As you may recall from last year, Pangboche is home to Lama Geshe. He is an internationally renowned Lama, a keeper of Buddhist knowledge of the highest order.\u00a0 <\/span>Climbers always visit him to seek his blessing before proceeding higher on the mountain.\u00a0 <\/span>Last year we enjoyed meeting him and experiencing his chanting and prayers on our behalf.\u00a0 <\/span>I have kept the sungdi prayer cord he tied around my neck that day, and am wearing it now.<\/p>\n

\"A
A mani wall on the trail below Ama. (Photo: Teresa Hagerty)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"My
My garb is intended to protect me from the sun… but another benefit is that it hides my sadness as we approach Pangboche, while I think of my friend Gene Peterson.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A year has passed.\u00a0 <\/span>And, so has my friend Gene Peterson.\u00a0 <\/span>Gene was my mentor, colleague, role model, and friend.\u00a0 <\/span>I was terribly saddened when he died of cancer.\u00a0 <\/span>He was incredibly supportive of me.\u00a0 <\/span>Medical doctor\u2026 PhD\u2026 MBA\u2026 Anesthesiologist\u2026 Director of our quality improvement department\u2026 world traveler\u2026 family man.\u00a0 <\/span>I can never thank him enough for his kindness and endless good cheer.\u00a0 <\/span>One small gesture would be to seek the Lama\u2019s blessing, and to carry his portrait to the summit.<\/p>\n

\"Pangboche,
Pangboche, home of Lama Geshi. (Photo: Teresa Hagerty)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lama
Lama Geshe, a wise and kind man. (Photo: Teresa Hagerty)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"No
No one is more excited to see the lama than Kim.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lama
Lama Geshe’s smile is infectious. (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"I
I receive a sungdie cord from Lama Geshe… it is tied next to the one he gave me last year. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When I handed the photo of Gene and his family to Lama Geshe, he studied it carefully.\u00a0 <\/span>I explained, with the assistance of Lopsang as interpreter, that Gene had been a very good man, a healer, and an admirer of Buddhism.\u00a0 <\/span>He chanted rhythmically, solemnly, and sprinkled it with holy water, and explained that he would return as a good man in a future life.\u00a0 <\/span>I am not a spiritual or religious person, but I could not stop crying.\u00a0 <\/span>Wearing my sun gear afterwards helped to somehow shield me from my grief, and to contemplate the transition from sadness to peace.\u00a0 <\/span>I think this closure will not fully happen until I make the summit.<\/p>\n

\"The
The photo of my friend Gene and his family that Lama Geshe blessed today. I will carry it to the summit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lama
Lama Geshe inspects the photo of Gene and nods in approval.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lama
Lama Geshe exhorts us to carry this card to the summit, to speed our safe passage from the mountain goddess.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"DSC00876\"
Pangboche from above.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Potatoes
Potatoes drying in the sun. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Shomare
Shomare in the distance, our lunch break place for the day.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
Looking back at the trail leading towards Pheriche.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Onwards!\"
Onwards!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"DSC00908\"
Nicky and Bob rock.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Which
Which is more awesome: Ama or Emily? Emily.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Soaking
Soaking up the rays at a break. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The trail from Pangboche leads to the village of Shomare, where we stopped for lunch.\u00a0 <\/span>The weather changed from blazing sun to fog and light wind, which was perfect for keeping us cool as we hiked above treeline into rolling meadows.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Justin
Justin is infatuated with my appearance on the trail. I think this impersonation is pretty good!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim
Kim Hess shoots my better side.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"My
My closeup… (Photo: Kim Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"DSC00891\"
Rafa having a ball.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The trail went higher and higher, eventually culminating in a sort of pass circa 14,500 feet.\u00a0 <\/span>From there, an easy descent to Pheriche.<\/p>\n

\"We
We are now well above treeline.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Ama
Ama Dablam’s visage changes as we march past her.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Yak
Yak on the move. (Photo: Teresa Hagerty)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A stupa with Everest in the background.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Down
Down from the “pass,” our day’s high point, towards Pheriche. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pheriche
Pheriche emerges from the mist.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Bob
Bob says we need to go that way.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lopsang,
Lopsang, Mingma Tenzing, and Nima. Awesome.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Porters
Porters pull into Pheriche with our kit. Yes!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We were pleased to stay in the same tea house as last year\u2026 It had been heavily damaged in the quake, but was refurbished and is now in fine form.\u00a0 <\/span>In fact, I am staying in the same room that Blake and I shared last year.\u00a0 <\/span>The common room is warm, the beer is tepid, and the chilly chicken is spicy.\u00a0 <\/span>It feels good to be back.<\/p>\n

Word of the day: Ethos<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Spectacular scenery and clear skies at the time of our departure from Tengboche this morning.\u00a0 Chilly air soon became warm, and we made good progress.\u00a0 In fact, I had to strip off my merino long underwear, to the delight of everyone.\u00a0 I still think there is a market for quick-release long johns\u2026 why does no … Continue reading Closing a Circle<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2140,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2138","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-approach-trek","expedition-everest-2016"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nClosing a Circle - OSM Adventures<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/04\/closing-a-circle\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Closing a Circle - 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