{"id":2307,"date":"2016-04-08T08:39:33","date_gmt":"2016-04-08T15:39:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=2307"},"modified":"2016-04-08T08:39:33","modified_gmt":"2016-04-08T15:39:33","slug":"welcome-home-again","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/04\/welcome-home-again\/","title":{"rendered":"Welcome Home… Again"},"content":{"rendered":"

Big day today, as we moved from LBC to EBC.\u00a0 <\/span>I remember this day well from last year: Long, stunningly beautiful, painful, exhausting.<\/p>\n

Pretty much a repeat of that experience\u2026 except there is NO SNOW on the route, temperatures are a bit warmer, and I am not nearly as ill as I was last time.\u00a0 <\/span>(I did develop a small cough after the return from Zhongla yesterday, but no big deal.)<\/p>\n

Again, as last year, a beautiful bluebird day out of the gate.\u00a0 <\/span>Views up and down the Khumbu were amazing.<\/p>\n

\"Cholatse
Cholatse bids us adieu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"We
We leave our camp in tip-top shape for the next wave of climbers, arriving a few hours later.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Our
Our Sherpa team conferring.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lopsang,
Lopsang, sirdar extraordinaire.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Yiorgos
Yiorgos strikes a pose.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Tania
Tania is used to Rafa’s early morning cheering sessions. We love them.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Moving
Moving up the basin from LBC.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Tunang,
Tunang, Mingma, Justin, and Eddie leaving LBC.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Rounding
Rounding the corner from LBC, Ama Dablam comes into view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pumori
Pumori comes into view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lhotse
Lhotse towers in the distance.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The chortens of Thokla, seen from across the valley. We will visit them up close on the way home.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Yaks
Yaks make progress towards Thokla. Last year, the same shot framed the yaks in snow.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Panorama
Panorama of the view leaving LBC.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Things looked surprisingly good at Lobuche town, where the tea houses had been rebuilt nicely.\u00a0 <\/span>The fecal stream running through the middle of town had no icebergs floating in it\u2026 warmer than last year for sure.<\/p>\n

\"A
A rare moment of compact snow ice on the trail, just before Lobuche Town. (Photo: Chris Hagerty)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pulling
Pulling in to Lobuche Town for a short break.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"This
This inn at Lobuche town looks amazing after facade reconstruction.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"...
… The same structure one year ago on our evacuation march.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One feature I recall well from last year was a short rise, which we dubbed Cougher\u2019s Hill, because we all hacked up a lung when we reached the top\u2026 this time, we are mostly in much better health, and this was no big thing to get over.<\/p>\n

\"Looking
Looking down the valley from the base of Cougher’s Hill.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Our
Our guides confer before we tackle Cougher’s Hill.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Bob
Bob refuels at the base of Cougher’s Hill.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kazi
Kazi and Kim at the base of Cougher’s Hill.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Tunang
Tunang and Nima get psyched for Cougher’s Hill.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Teresa
Teresa and Chris refuel at the base of Cougher’s Hill.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Susan
Susan and Yiorgos ponder life on Cougher’s Hill.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Nuptse.
Nuptse. Fearsome, stunning, amazing.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Closeup
Closeup of Nuptse… the hanging glaciers seem to defy gravity.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Nuptse
Nuptse grows larger, as does the west shoulder of Everest, icefall in between.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Roger
Roger approaching Gorak Shep, Lobuche Peak behind him.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Traffic
Traffic jam in the Khumbu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The Khumbu Glacier… much, much drier than last year! EBC is just visible on the left side of the screen, on the left side of the white snow tongue.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"We
We approach Gorak Shep, with Kala Patar the dark bump directly under Pumori.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Closer
Closer view of EBC from above Gorak Shep.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"From
From left to right: Changtse, Everest West Shoulder, Everest Summit (with cloud cap), Nuptse.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Gorak
Gorak Shep (Sherpa language for Dead Raven) circa 17,000 feet AMSL.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Panorama
Panorama from above Gorak Shep.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A short break at Gorak Shep was welcome\u2026 and was stunning in terms of the difference vs last year, when the streets ran thick with mud and half-frozen yak dung, necessitating a delicate dance from stone to stone in order to avoid getting a boot full of brown liquid.\u00a0 <\/span>This year, the path was beautiful, clean, wide, white sand as far as the eye can see.<\/p>\n

As usual, things clouded over and cooled off in the evening.\u00a0 <\/span>I felt chilled as we gained a view of EBC: It looked smaller and less populated than last year, but this is only my first impression and not a scientifically validated study!<\/p>\n

\"Looking
Looking down the Khumbu Glacier. It is always covered in stones,but this is so different from last year, when everything was blanketed in white snow.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A final view of EBC before we drop down from the ridge onto the lower moraine.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Clouds
Clouds move in… even Changtse is obscured, just over the border with Tibet.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim
Kim and Justin at the bottom of the lateral moraine debris heap. Just a few more minutes to EBC now!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"IMG
IMG EBC. Same location, even better layout. Our tents are in a neat line blow the coms tent… partially obscured in this view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Rounding
Rounding the final ice lake before IMG EBC.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The Hybrid tents lined up, Everest West Shoulder and Nuptse looming above. (Photo: Chris Hagerty)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Hard day.\u00a0 <\/span>But a good one.\u00a0 <\/span>It felt like coming home.\u00a0 <\/span>IMG EBC is in the exact same place as last year, a very auspicious site that is safe and well-sited.\u00a0 <\/span>This time, things are largely reorganized to accommodate new rivers and streams that have formed.\u00a0 <\/span>The Hybrid team tent site is sheltered from much of the prevailing wind, and off the main trail, so it feels downright cozy.<\/p>\n

A posh dinner in a well-appointed tent was very welcome, as was unpacking my climbing kit was a bit like Christmas day\u2026 and Santa knew exactly what to get me!<\/p>\n

Rest in a warm tent.\u00a0 <\/span>Not much better than that\u2026 Tomorrow, more organization and moving in.<\/p>\n

Word of the day: Homestead<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Big day today, as we moved from LBC to EBC.\u00a0 I remember this day well from last year: Long, stunningly beautiful, painful, exhausting. Pretty much a repeat of that experience\u2026 except there is NO SNOW on the route, temperatures are a bit warmer, and I am not nearly as ill as I was last time.\u00a0 … Continue reading Welcome Home… Again<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2296,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2307","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-approach-trek","expedition-everest-2016"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWelcome Home... 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