{"id":2793,"date":"2016-04-24T03:16:44","date_gmt":"2016-04-24T10:16:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=2793"},"modified":"2019-04-06T18:58:13","modified_gmt":"2019-04-07T01:58:13","slug":"to-camp-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/04\/to-camp-1\/","title":{"rendered":"To Camp 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

Our goal: Rotate to Camp 1 for two nights, then Camp 2 for two nights, then return to EBC.<\/p>\n

Early wake-up.\u00a0 <\/span>Early breakfast.\u00a0 <\/span>Early departure.\u00a0 <\/span>We are getting good at these pre-dawn starts. The rationale for leaving in the dark is to reduce the amount of time we must spend in the sunshine up high\u2014not to reduce avvy risk (I am not convinced that sunshine has a short-term impact on icefall stability), but rather to shield us from the searing heat.\u00a0 <\/span>At that elevation, with so much snow and ice underfoot and all around, you can burn skin or corneas in minutes without diligent precautions.\u00a0 <\/span>And, it\u2019s exhausting to labor under such heat.<\/p>\n

\"Cold
Cold and dark at Crampon Point.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The lower portion of the icefall was very similar to our last foray, except that the ladder leading out of the Pit of Despair had been moved a bit to climber\u2019s right, which may be more direct and reliable.\u00a0 <\/span>Lack of a rap line makes this a continued choke-point on the route.<\/p>\n

\"Climbing
Climbing out of the Toilet Bowl by headlamp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Steven
Steven Hess at the traverse just below the Pit of Despair.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"It
It was windy up high that morning, as you can see from the spindrift off the peaks above… for us, lower down, winds were fine.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Making
Making progress in the icefall (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Siva
Siva and Lahkpa Nuru on ice. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Siva
Siva loves it up here. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The 5-ladder has been moved to the right… better. But, this time, no rap line. Progress.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A view of the bottom of the Pit. Still a wreck of unstable debris.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lahkpa
Lahkpa Yeti (Emily Johnston) loves it here.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Much more relaxed and efficient reaching the Football Field.\u00a0 <\/span>Above was unknown territory.\u00a0 <\/span>Huge seracs, shattered popcorn, deep crevasses\u2026 this section has it all.\u00a0 <\/span>Super beautiful in an eerie, creepy way.<\/p>\n

\"The
The snow has been crushed by its own weight over time into solid “glare” ice.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Moving
Moving up beyond the Football Field.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Most
Most of the traffic on the route today is from ourselves… which makes it just fine. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The Tragic Ice face, which calved off and killed many Sherpa mountaineers in 2014. We are well to the right of this zone.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pumori
Pumori in blazing sunshine… our route in deep, frigid shadow. Colorful tents of EBC visible below Pumori.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Emily
Emily Johnston and Pasang Kami.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Gaining the cwm requires one final, spectacular climb up a crown face at the top of the icefall.\u00a0 <\/span>This is like countless other structures up high: Basically, as the glacier falls down the mountain, it splits into seracs of snow and ice.\u00a0 <\/span>Each storm\u2019s snowfall is revealed as a distinct layer\u2014or striation\u2014in cross-section.\u00a0 <\/span>This top slab was beautiful, and towered over a shattered section below that is in effect a high, chaotic bergschrund.\u00a0 <\/span>As it happened, sunshine hit us for this final steep climb, making it a beautiful pitch.<\/p>\n

\"First
First glimpse of the top roller, the last barrier between us the the cwm. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A climber from another team makes progress up the final crown face.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Steven
Steven and Pemba Gyelsen prepare to tackle the final obstacle.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Ice
Ice debris below the final gateway face before the cwm. In effect, this is a giant, giant top bergschrund.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pasang
Pasang Kami always has my back.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
View to our left: The Horseshoe Glacier near the entrance to the cwm. Tragic ice face at the upper left.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Looking
Looking down into the shattered zone below the top roller. Sun is finally here, and for the moment welcome after the morning’s deep freeze. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Here
Here goes Steven….<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Me
Me topping out on the roller, entering the cwm. You can see that the spindrift off the distant peaks (Lingtren and Khumbutse) has disappeared, meaning it is less windy now. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Totally
Totally puffed and breathless… but happy to be in the cwm. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After gaining the cwm we still had to walk for about an hour between crevasses and over \u201crollers,\u201d more giant snow features evocative of swells at sea.\u00a0 <\/span>Hot, exhausting, and beautiful if I took a moment to take it all in.<\/p>\n

\"From
From the top of the final face, another view of the Horseshoe Glacier on the left, and Lhotse on the right in the distance at the end of the cwm.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The cwm begins to open to us… Everest west shoulder on the left, Nuptse on the right, Lhotse at center.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The cwm is huge… these climbers lend a sense of scale and perspective. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Rubble
Rubble field as a runout from a couloir on the West Shoulder of Everest. We like to stay well away from these. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Lakhpa
Lakhpa Nuru and Siva cruising over the rollers. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Nuptse
Nuptse above a “roller” at the bottom of the cwm.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Wreckage
Wreckage from last year near Camp 1. Usually nothing is left behind… because of the earthquake last year, some debris was left during the evacuation. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Camp 1 is situated near the bottom of the cwm, surrounded by Nuptse, Everest, and Lhotse.\u00a0 <\/span>Dramatic, gorgeous, and so evocative of last year.<\/p>\n

\"Camp
Camp 1! We made it! Yes. My sleeping bag is on top of the tent I share with Siva to shield it from the searing UV radiation.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Concept of the day: Good to be back.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Our goal: Rotate to Camp 1 for two nights, then Camp 2 for two nights, then return to EBC. Early wake-up.\u00a0 Early breakfast.\u00a0 Early departure.\u00a0 We are getting good at these pre-dawn starts. The rationale for leaving in the dark is to reduce the amount of time we must spend in the sunshine up high\u2014not … Continue reading To Camp 1<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2705,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2793","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ascent","expedition-everest-2016"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nTo Camp 1 - OSM Adventures<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/04\/to-camp-1\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"To Camp 1 - OSM Adventures\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Our goal: Rotate to Camp 1 for two nights, then Camp 2 for two nights, then return to EBC. Early wake-up.\u00a0 Early breakfast.\u00a0 Early departure.\u00a0 We are getting good at these pre-dawn starts. 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