{"id":2956,"date":"2016-05-08T00:32:20","date_gmt":"2016-05-08T07:32:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=2956"},"modified":"2019-04-07T10:40:53","modified_gmt":"2019-04-07T17:40:53","slug":"slow-down-and-wait","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/05\/slow-down-and-wait\/","title":{"rendered":"Slow Down and Wait"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"p1\">I slept poorly that night, sinuses filling constantly with bloody discharge, and cough triggering whenever I rolled from side to side (I am strictly a side sleeper).<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Plus, my ribcage hurt like crazy whenever I coughed or rolled over\u2026 in summary, not a great night.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>BUT, the comforts of Camp 2 were alluring (meal tent, toilet tent), so I was motivated to get crackin\u2019 early.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2970\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2970\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2970\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/IMG_20160505_072134025XX1X-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Our destiny awaits us above: End of the cwm, end of the line. (Photo: Nicky Lowry)\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/IMG_20160505_072134025XX1X-800x600.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/IMG_20160505_072134025XX1X-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/IMG_20160505_072134025XX1X-660x495.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/IMG_20160505_072134025XX1X-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2970\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Our destiny awaits us above: End of the cwm, end of the line. (Photo: Nicky Lowry)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">I kept my pledge from yesterday to cover the rear vestibule floor with fresh snow\u2026 it will melt, of course, revealing the bloody mosaic in a creepy process in the coming days, but at least I\u2019m trying to do the right thing.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">As you may recall, the move from Camp 1 to 2 involves climbing some \u201croller\u201d faces, then walking gradually uphill in the middle of the great western cwm.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is not a \u201ctough\u201d day by most any standard (though we do end at 21,300 feet), and yet I very much wanted to be kind to my mucus membranes by avoiding coughing if at all possible.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My motto for the day was \u201ceasy does it.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2958\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2958\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2958\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/IMG_20160505_085421471-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Pemba Gyaltzen, Ang Pemba, and Mingma Tenzing relaxing on the trail to Camp 2. (Photo: Nicky Lowry)\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/IMG_20160505_085421471-800x600.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/IMG_20160505_085421471-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/IMG_20160505_085421471-660x495.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/IMG_20160505_085421471-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2958\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pemba Gyaltzen, Ang Pemba, and Mingma Tenzing relaxing on the trail to Camp 2. (Photo: Nicky Lowry)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Those who know me understand this already, but for those whom I don\u2019t know as well: Paul doesn\u2019t do \u201cslow.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I have one speed on my feet, which most folks think is fast (I think you are in my way, please move over, thank you very much).<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I can count on one gnarled hand the number of times I have been passed on foot in daily life (not counting people running by).<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Julie says that if there\u2019s a hell, and if I\u2019m headed there (doubtlessly yes), mine will be a perpetual sidewalk with a person-of-size walking her little dog in front of me, and no way to get by.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>(Yes, my wife gets me.)<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">So, this was a challenging day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I got through it by walking intentionally, very very slowly, almost as a physiological experiment.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>How slowly can I go without my body thinking we are stopped and thus triggering a coughing fit?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My guide and mentor and savior was the lovely and super strong, super talented Emily Johnston.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cYou\u2019re going too fast.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>You\u2019re a rabbit chasing the carrot.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Stop it.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I put Pasang Kami in front.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Then I went in front.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>When that did not satisfy her, she put herself in front and reduced pace to one step every three seconds.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Period.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>No wiggle room upwards.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cHow\u2019s the pace?\u201d she would ask.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cYou could go a little faster, that would be fine with me.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cNo.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>No I will not.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This is not a race.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I can slow down though.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cPlease don\u2019t, this is fine Emily.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">And on and on.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The wind hit us at one point beyond Nuptse Corner, and I needed to stop in order to put on a layer.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I watched with melancholy as the pod of teammates just ahead of us walked majestically away into the ground blizzard.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I would not see them again until we reached camp.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The distance between camps is just under two miles as the crow flies (yes, there are crows up there), but longer considering the maneuvering we make around crevasses.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Time ticked by so painfully.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But, I must admit that my lungs felt better than I had thought possible.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">When we reached the base of Camp 2, and the terrain pitched up a bit steeper, the sun finally began to show itself, and it was necessary to drop layers and settle in for a grinding cap to the day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>IMG Camp 2 is situated at the top of the moraine, and it literally took us over an hour to make it there from the time we passed the bottommost tent\u2014which is crazy long.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Emily stuck with me every step of the way, as did Pasang Kami.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I felt so badly for this elite Sherpa athlete that eventually we implored him to bolt ahead and get to camp.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He did so\u2026 but backtracked a short time later with a thermos of hot tea, and insisted on carrying my backpack into camp.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was so ground down that I happily acquiesced.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>We have been through tough times before, meaning the quake last year, and I would like to think that our history informs part of his generosity with me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>On the other hand, that is the Sherpa ethos, and I suspect he would work this hard for whichever climber was assigned to him.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Either way, I was very impressed with Pasang Kami and am super grateful.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">This was not the way I wanted to pull into Camp 2, but our goal had been slow and steady, and we accomplished that.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Again, I must emphasize the incredible guidance from Emily Johnston.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>There are very few guides in the world who would have the patience, gumption, moxie, and dedication to stick with a sick climber the way she did, literally pacing every step, hour after hour, above 20,000 feet.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Typical of IMG to have someone of this caliber on the payroll.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Exceptional among guides the world around.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">The prospect of heading up to Camp 3 the next morning was serious for me, because I felt quite exhausted.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>However, I was not alone in feeling poorly that day, and IMG being climber-focused allowed us to expand the rotation by a day before moving to Camp 3.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Some guiding outfits would not give a damn whether everyone in the party was ready to go.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But our goal is universal safety and success, and so a rest day was added.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>As I settled in for the night, I thought for the umpteenth time, <em>Thank goodness I chose IMG.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2955\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2955\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2955\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/DSC00121-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"Cristiano makes his way to the dinner tent at Camp 2. This is the only photo I had the energy to take between Camp 1 and 2. \" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/DSC00121-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/DSC00121-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/DSC00121-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/DSC00121-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2955\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cristiano makes his way to the dinner tent at Camp 2. This is the only photo I had the energy to take between Camp 1 and 2.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">I\u2019m not sure what happened to me that night\u2014perhaps exhaustion simply overwhelmed me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Somehow I slept very, very soundly.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In fact, this was the first time I could recall sleeping longer that 45 minutes at a stretch in over a week.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I awoke feeling refreshed and restored\u2014I had literally forgotten what that felt like.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">This made me very optimistic for the possibility of improving during rest day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The agenda: Eat, drink, rest, pack.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3026\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3026\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-3026\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.23.05XPM-800x478.jpg\" alt=\"Steven Hess: Master of Cheese. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.23.05XPM-800x478.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.23.05XPM-150x90.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.23.05XPM-660x394.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.23.05XPM-768x459.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3026\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steven Hess: Master of Cheese. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3027\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3027\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-3027\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.23.47XPM-800x478.jpg\" alt=\"Ceiling shot of the meal tent. Justin seems not to be amused. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.23.47XPM-800x478.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.23.47XPM-150x90.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.23.47XPM-660x394.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.23.47XPM-768x459.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3027\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ceiling shot of the meal tent. Justin seems not to be amused. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3028\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3028\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-3028\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.24.09XPM-800x478.jpg\" alt=\"Feedin' Time. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.24.09XPM-800x478.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.24.09XPM-150x90.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.24.09XPM-660x394.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.24.09XPM-768x459.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3028\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Feedin&#8217; Time. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3029\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3029\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3029 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.25.19XPM-800x478.jpg\" alt=\"ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.25.19XPM\" width=\"800\" height=\"478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.25.19XPM-800x478.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.25.19XPM-150x90.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.25.19XPM-660x394.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/05\/ScreenXShotX2016-05-09XatX4.25.19XPM-768x459.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3029\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Under the excellent care of Emily Johnston, MD. She seems concerned here&#8230;. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">We watched streams of climbers head up the Lhotse face towards Camp 3.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was stunned to see the route they took: Rather than sticking to the smooth left-hand portion of the face, they went up over bulges of blue ice to the right.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My heart sank when I saw this, because it looked so exhausting and time-consuming.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>On the open slope, one could hope to develop a rhythm and grind out a huge staircase.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>BUT, the open slope is also exposed to avvy and rockfall risk\u2026 thus, the safe but painful option of going right.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Knowing that we would sleep at Camp 3\u201423,700 feet\u2014without supplementary O2 was equally daunting.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Girding up the loins in my mind, I settled in for a few hours of sleep after dinner.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I have waited my entire life to climb Everest.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>After the icefall, no terrain feature has dominated my imagination more than the Lhotse Face.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My cough and sinus discharge were down a bit.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Enough to get me safely up and back?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The morning would tell.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Concept of the day: <em>Dreaming of the Face.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I slept poorly that night, sinuses filling constantly with bloody discharge, and cough triggering whenever I rolled from side to side (I am strictly a side sleeper).\u00a0 Plus, my ribcage hurt like crazy whenever I coughed or rolled over\u2026 in summary, not a great night.\u00a0 BUT, the comforts of Camp 2 were alluring (meal tent, &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/05\/slow-down-and-wait\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Slow Down and Wait<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2954,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2956","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ascent","expedition-everest-2016"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - 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