{"id":2999,"date":"2016-05-09T00:19:45","date_gmt":"2016-05-09T07:19:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=2999"},"modified":"2016-09-10T15:30:11","modified_gmt":"2016-09-10T22:30:11","slug":"face-the-face","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/05\/face-the-face\/","title":{"rendered":"Face the Face"},"content":{"rendered":"

Circa 5 AM we started out towards the bergschrund in clear skies and cold, cold temperatures.\u00a0 <\/span>I began at the head of the pack, eager to make a good showing.\u00a0 <\/span>But, I knew better, because this would put me at risk of lung irritation.\u00a0 <\/span>Emily Johnston called me on it, as expected: \u201cYou need to slow down, doctor.\u201d\u00a0 <\/span>And so I did, letting the faster team members pull away after we got the crampons on.\u00a0 <\/span>She was reassuring, as always: \u201cThis is not a speed trial.\u00a0 <\/span>This is about acclimatization, period.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Summit
Summit of Lhotse crowned in plume of sunlit cloud. The proud, austere Lhotse Face falls away towards us. Our goal: Camp 3, in the rough-looking patch just right of midline, at a height just above the start of the dark nose of the Geneva Spur.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pasang
Pasang Kami gets his points on.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim
Kim Hess: Ball of Happiness.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Glad
Glad I invested in this Feathered Friends suit. Holy schnikes it was cold.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our first break came at almost two hours, just below the \u2018schrund.\u00a0 <\/span>I was surprised it took us that long to get to the base of the face, but there it is.\u00a0 <\/span>As usual, distances and scale are very deceiving up here.\u00a0 <\/span>The strategy is to drop down into the crevasse itself, then climb out on the other side after crossing a snow bridge.\u00a0 <\/span>We made this happen pretty smoothly; the overhanging wall served as a fine motivator for speed.<\/p>\n

\"View
View of the Face from our first break. The ragged cliff running above us is called the Bergschrund. To cross it, we will drop down into it and then climb out via the diagonal snow ramp you see at center screen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Closer
Closer view of the route, starting with snow ramp leading from the ‘schrund, leading up into the blue ice of the right face. See the climbers above us, tiny black dots? Our Camp 3 is above all others… just on top of the circular shadow you see to the left of center, near the dark rock band.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Climbers
Climbers from other expeditions begin to exit the ‘schrund.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Looking
Looking back down the cwm from our break point. The view will begin to change dramatically from here, with a new POV from greater heights.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Heading
Heading towards the ‘schrund, a notorious choke-point in the route, and just about the only section of the day with any true objective hazard (potential collapse of the top wall).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Sunshine
Sunshine hits the floor of the cwm. The closer we get to the ‘schrund, the more shadow we draw, which feels great.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pasang
Pasang Kami’s demeanor is all business. Emily Johnston’s… not so much.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"An
An auxiliary rap line can be seen at center screen… great for going down, but there’s only one way up this sucker.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"We
We approach the ‘schrund.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Bottom
Bottom of the ‘schrund, and we climb our way out the other side. Bob Lowry leads the way here with authority.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Bob
Bob Lowry makes progress on his way out of the bergschrund. (Photo: Nicky Lowry)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Check
Check out the climber third from the right. I believe he is a right leg amputee. That is amazing!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"IMG_20160503_113528216_HDR\"
Looking back at one of the ice bulges, down the cwm. (Photo: Nicky Lowry)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"IMG_20160503_094859345-2\"
Nicky loves it up here. (Photo: Bob Lowry)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Bob
Bob rocks the break. (Photo: Nicky Lowry)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Above the schrund we emerged from shadow into the sunshine, and got down to the business of climbing the Lhotse Face.\u00a0 <\/span>Almost immediately the route doglegged right, away from the beautiful smooth left side, and up into a bulge of bulletproof blue ice.\u00a0 <\/span>This was tough going.\u00a0 <\/span>I paced myself at 8-10 breaths per step, but after a particularly tough move would surge to 20 breaths per step.\u00a0 <\/span>Bear in mind that on most any other slope, at most any other elevation, the breath : step ratio is about 1 : 1.\u00a0 <\/span>Up here, my goal ratio is three breaths per step.\u00a0 <\/span>So, this was very, very slow going for me.<\/p>\n

\"At
At a break soon after the bergschrund.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pemba
Pemba Gyaltzen in his element.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pasang
Pasang Kami rocks.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The fixed lines here are true climbing rope, with a real kernmantle that the ascender teeth can dig into with authority, plus a nice dynamic action, and also a lovely hand.\u00a0 <\/span>In summary, these lines are far more fun to work with than the Korean twisted lines of lower on the mountain. There were plenty of times when I shoved the ascender up as high as I could reach, then leaned back and trusted it 100%, resting on the line while catching my breath.\u00a0 <\/span>These were fleeting moments, because any true rest would trigger an upwelling of sputum and reactive cough.<\/p>\n

The face was not particularly steep; rather, it was so variable that it was just about impossible to develop a solid rhythm.\u00a0 <\/span>Rush, wait, start up again, slow down.\u00a0 <\/span>Exhausting work, and I suppose this was made worse by my lung issues.<\/p>\n

In many cases, the thin dusting of snow from the prior couple of days made things substantially worse: the snow was just the depth of my crampon points, rendering them less reliable for biting into the blue ice beneath.\u00a0 <\/span>Knocking snow from the soles was yet another chore to attend to.<\/p>\n

\"Looking
Looking back at Camp 2 from well above the bergschrund.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Looking
Looking up at the Face from one of many ice bulges. Camp 3 is obscured from view by terrain features.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Same
Same location, panning a bit to the left. The snow field is so very seductive from here….<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Selfie
Selfie at a break.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Siva
Siva rocks the fixed lines.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Emily
Emily sweeps with high style and authority.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There were plenty of other teams on the lines that day, which is no surprise.\u00a0 <\/span>Some were headed to their version of Camp 3 to spend the night, others just wanted to reach camp and then head right back to sleep at Camp 2.\u00a0 <\/span>Managing traffic is part of mountaineering up here, and we are all trained to do it.\u00a0 <\/span>No miscommunications or close calls on the lines\u2026. But, still, I saw plenty of technique that made me shudder.\u00a0 <\/span>I will not go into details etc, but I will say once again that I literally said out loud to myself on more than one occasion, \u201cThank god I am climbing with IMG.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Looking
Looking down the cwm from a new elevation, with new POV.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Camp 3 is really two totally different camps.\u00a0 <\/span>There\u2019s the place where everyone else stays, just a short distance above the \u2018schrund\u2026 and then there\u2019s IMG, which is about 300 feet\u00a0higher on the face.\u00a0 <\/span>The obstacles between the camps are small\u2014or would seem small on any other face.\u00a0 <\/span>But, above 23,000 feet, every step is tough.\u00a0 <\/span>Eventually we made it within sight of the HimEx camp, but I had no idea how much farther our camp was beyond that.\u00a0 <\/span>In total exhaustion, I sat down in the snow and took a drink of lukewarm water.\u00a0 <\/span>Then I noticed a unique figure standing next to the HimEx tents: Justin Merle!\u00a0 <\/span>Turns out our camps are superimposed on each other, ours is just invisible from below due to the steepness of the slope.\u00a0 <\/span>Pasang Kami\u2019s brother, Mingma, came down from camp and took my pack from me, which was a huge blessing, and we made our way up the last 50 meters to Camp 3.\u00a0 <\/span>I was totally gobsmacked by our elevation: This was much, much higher than I had envisioned.\u00a0 <\/span>The Yellow Band snaked along below us.\u00a0 <\/span>The nose of the Geneva Spur lay below us.\u00a0 <\/span>Getting to the South Col looked more like a traverse left than a climb (this is an illusion, but a good one).\u00a0 <\/span>Oh my god we are climbing Everest now.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Clouds
Clouds move in. A short time later, stinging snow squalls rolled down the face.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Camp 3 sits on a narrow platform that has been chiseled from the snow and ice.\u00a0 <\/span>The tents are clustered together in a line, and a narrow catwalk runs in front of them.\u00a0 <\/span>Justin guided me along this catwalk to the last tent.\u00a0 <\/span>Inside: An insulating pad and an oxygen cylinder (just in case I got into trouble with HAPE in the night).\u00a0 <\/span>Off came the crampons, and in I went.\u00a0 <\/span>After a short time I was unpacked and settled.\u00a0 <\/span>Toughest part was inflating my Therm-a-Rest pad (three breaths for me, one for the pad).\u00a0 <\/span>I got into my -40 degree sleeping bag and tried to drink as much water as possible\u2026 I was able to down a liter within an hour, which is pretty good for those conditions.\u00a0 <\/span>My MRE was heated quickly and handed back to me: Beef stew with noodles & vegetables.\u00a0 <\/span>I\u2019ve eaten lots of instant meals up high, but this one took the cake for being unpalatable and unpleasant.\u00a0 <\/span>Over the course of 20 minutes, I ate every scrap of it.\u00a0 <\/span>Eat or perish.\u00a0 <\/span>Do it.<\/em>\u00a0 <\/span>I also forced down some sweet snack food, and more hot water.<\/p>\n

My tent mate was my trusty climbing partner, Pasang Kami.\u00a0 <\/span>He climbed into the tent after me and was unpacked and ready to sleep in a flash.\u00a0 <\/span>His kit is very spartan compared with mine.\u00a0 <\/span>I had a hard time making out whether he was under-equipped or whether I was over-burdened.\u00a0 <\/span>Mostly the latter, I think.<\/p>\n

The goal of this night is to have the toughest night of your life, breathing ambient air at 23,700 feet, in order to trigger a beneficial acclimatization reaction.\u00a0 <\/span>It is a time-honored tradition at IMG, and although few other outfits still go this way, I thought of it as a point of honor and pride.\u00a0 <\/span>The messages of support poured in via my InReach, and I cannot tell you how they boosted my spirits.\u00a0 <\/span>Let\u2019s do this.<\/em>\u00a0 <\/span>My goal was not to sleep, but rather to merely survive the night.<\/p>\n

But, sleep I did.\u00a0 <\/span>I was just too knackered to stay awake.\u00a0 <\/span>In my deluded, hypoxic state of mind, I experienced a variety of hallucinations and fixed beliefs.\u00a0 <\/span>Some of these may have been referable to the wonderful book I am reading, One Summer:\u00a0 America 1927<\/em> by Bill Bryson.\u00a0 <\/span>But who knows.\u00a0 <\/span>A more memorable thought process: For every time I executed a proper breath (in via the nostrils, out via the mouth, all under cover of the buff and in a humidity-cave built from my sleeping bag), a family overseas would receive a small amount of money.\u00a0 <\/span>In fact, the left nostril and right nostril went to different families; I forget about the left, but the right one went to support a middle class family of four in Australia, in the 1950\u2019s.\u00a0 <\/span>They sat there on their burnt-sienna shag carpet, dad smoking a pipe, watching me breathe time and again.\u00a0 <\/span>If I stopped breathing temporarily (this happens all the time at altitude, even with acetazolamide on board), they became a bit cross.\u00a0 <\/span>You can do it, mate.\u00a0 <\/span>Go on.\u00a0 <\/span>BREATHE<\/em>.<\/p>\n

By far the most uncomfortable\u2014shockingly uncomfortable\u2014sensation was the dryness of my mouth and throat.\u00a0 <\/span>We\u2019ve all had the experience of waking up in winter with a dry mouth or sore throat.\u00a0 <\/span>Now, multiply that sensation by 20.\u00a0 <\/span>I literally peeled my uvula from my palate with my tongue, and it took a bit of force and maneuvering, popping off with a sickly sound reminiscent of carving chicken on a cutting board.\u00a0 <\/span>Drinking water, or gargling or swishing, provided virtually no relief.\u00a0 <\/span>Cough drops made things worse, coating the mouth with an odd, slick residue.<\/p>\n

Breath after breath, minute after minute, hour after hour it went.\u00a0 <\/span>I tried to read for a time, which was a welcome distraction (Warren G. Harding was an absolute monster, corrupt to the core\u2026 I had forgotten all about this).\u00a0 <\/span>But, time ticked by slowly indeed.<\/p>\n

By the time light began to penetrate the tent walls, I was very happy.\u00a0 <\/span>I had no real breathing trouble, I had slept from time to time, and aside from the world\u2019s driest mouth I felt pretty damn good.\u00a0 <\/span>You did it.<\/em><\/p>\n

Now, all we had to do was get back to Camp 2.<\/p>\n

Word of the day: Uvula<\/em>. \u00a0 \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Circa 5 AM we started out towards the bergschrund in clear skies and cold, cold temperatures.\u00a0 I began at the head of the pack, eager to make a good showing.\u00a0 But, I knew better, because this would put me at risk of lung irritation.\u00a0 Emily Johnston called me on it, as expected: \u201cYou need to … Continue reading Face the Face<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2993,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2999","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ascent","expedition-everest-2016"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nFace the Face - OSM Adventures<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/05\/face-the-face\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Face the Face - 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