\nA: Lots of reasons.\u00a0 It is the ambition of my lifetime.\u00a0 A chance to test myself in tough conditions, with wonderful teammates, in truly collaborative environment.\u00a0 A way to unplug (at least to escape incoming emails).\u00a0 A chance to spend time in a spectacular mountain range with other people who appreciate its beauty.\u00a0 Mallory was so irritated by this question that he famously quipped, \u201cBecause it’s there.\u201d I agree\u2026 Better yet: \u201cIf you have to ask, you\u2019ll never understand.\u201d<\/p>\n
Q: Are you addicted to danger or something?\u00a0 What\u2019s your major malfunction?<\/strong> Q: What makes you think you can do this?<\/strong> Q: With whom are you climbing?<\/strong> Q: How much does it cost?<\/strong> Q: Who exactly is on your team?\u00a0 Can I read about them here too?<\/strong> Q: What route will you take?<\/strong> Q: Will you use oxygen?<\/strong> Q: Doesn’t using oxygen feel like cheating?<\/strong> Q: What’s your itinerary?<\/strong> Q: That is a long trip!\u00a0 How does your family feel about this?<\/strong> Q: What about work?\u00a0 How can you get that time off?<\/strong> Q: What if you get sick?<\/strong> Q: No, I meant altitude sick…<\/strong> Q: 13,000 feet in Seattle?<\/strong><\/p>\n A: A company called Hypoxico<\/a> makes a unit that depletes O2 from the air pumped into a tent over the bed, or into a mask I wear during workouts.\u00a0 Data supporting its use is lacking, and claims regarding boosted red cell mass are tough to substantiate.\u00a0 But, I have found that I feel more powerful and relaxed on the approach and climb if I “pre-acclimatize” with this system.\u00a0 I call it “Sleeping my way to the top.”\u00a0 It does seem to work for me.<\/p>\n Q: How do you train for this, really?<\/em><\/strong> Q: Just 20 lbs on your back?<\/strong> Q: What gear will you bring?<\/strong> Q: What’s your chances of making the summit?<\/strong> Q: Are you raising money for a charitable cause?<\/strong> Q: Can we follow your every move?<\/strong> I am about to leave on an expedition to climb Mt. Everest.\u00a0 This post should answer some of the questions people have asked me time and again. Q: Why are you doing this? A: Lots of reasons.\u00a0 It is the ambition of my lifetime.\u00a0 A chance to test myself in tough conditions, with wonderful … Continue reading “Why are you doing this?”<\/span>
\nA: I am one of the most careful climbers you\u2019ll meet.\u00a0 I go to the mountains in spite of potential danger, never because of it.\u00a0 I guess there is some sort of adrenaline rush on the good days, but never because of the danger, rather because of the thrill of doing things the right way, safely\u2026 including the willingness to turn around if things don\u2019t feel right.\u00a0 I have a fabulous family, super friends, wonderful career and co-workers\u2026 I am truly the luckiest person I know.\u00a0 I would never<\/em> jeopardize that on a whim or take any sort of crazy risks.<\/p>\n![\"Doug](\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/DSC02243.jpg\")
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\nA: I have dreamed of climbing Everest since second grade\u2026 and have been training actively for it since 2007.\u00a0 I am a husband & dad, doctor, teacher, mentor\u2026 and amateur mountaineer.\u00a0 In that order.\u00a0 My mountaineering CV is thinner than many, fatter than some.\u00a0 I have learned a tremendous amount in the last eight years, mostly from my amazing mentor and best friend, Doug Black… and loads from all the professional guides with whom I have been lucky to climb.\u00a0 I am totally humble about this process, and even the idea of getting safely to the top and back again seems crazy sometimes.\u00a0 But, I have paid my dues, and have proven that I have the stamina and technical skills and mental focus to perform well up high.\u00a0 Well enough for Everest?\u00a0 I damn well think so.\u00a0 If not, I wouldn\u2019t attempt it.\u00a0 We\u2019ll see.<\/p>\n
\nA: International Mountain Guides (IMG)<\/a>, based in Ashford, Washington.\u00a0 They are simply unsurpassed, in every regard.\u00a0 They have guided more people to the top of Everest than anyone else, with a superb safety record.\u00a0 They are true partners and supporters of the Sherpa people, with whom they have created lasting, meaningful, respectful relationships.\u00a0 And, they are excellent stewards of the land.\u00a0 I have been totally impressed with IMG in every expedition (Aconcagua, Mt Blanc, Mt Vinson, Mt Rainier winter seminar).\u00a0 Plus, they seem to like me\u2026 we\u00a0 always have a ball.\u00a0 The IMG ethos is one I aspire to\u2026 they are always the class act on the mountain, and I am excited to climb with them again.<\/p>\n
\nA: This expedition’s price tag is in the middle of a pretty substantial range of prices you will hear about.\u00a0 Many offer cheaper trips, and some more expensive, but in my view IMG provides a superb<\/em> value for the price; and, after all, safety is priceless.\u00a0 You can find out more about IMG’s Everest programs<\/a> on their website, please do.<\/p>\n
\nA: For reasons of privacy, I will only blog about myself… No drama, no gossip, just my thoughts and experiences during the adventure.\u00a0 But, yes, I know a bunch of folks up there, not just on my own team, and everyone is amazing.\u00a0 We will have a safe trip, and will have a blast doing it.\u00a0 For overall expedition coverage, please follow IMG’s Everest blog<\/a>.<\/p>\n
\nA: South (Nepal) side.\u00a0 And no, in spite of what you may have read, there is not a “new” route this year…. In order to enhance safety during the icefall crossing, the route will move away from the left shoulder and more towards the center.\u00a0 This will likely increase crossing time, but vastly reduce the risk of injury due to falling ice in the way that led to tragedy last April.<\/p>\n
\nA: Oh hell yes.\u00a0 About 2% of climbers are thought to have the innate physiology to climb Everest safely without oxygen.\u00a0 Those people are my heroes!\u00a0 I have absolutely no reason to think that I’m one of them… and I have no strong desire to find out.\u00a0 Climbing Everest will be tough enough doing it like 98% of folks… going without “O’s” is not on my agenda this time.<\/p>\n
\nA: Sure… in the same way wearing boots and clothing feels like cheating.\u00a0 Or in the same way that being supported by guides (Sherpa and western) feels like cheating.\u00a0 This is how it’s done, people!\u00a0 Put another way: It’s only cheating if you pretend to hold yourself to a different standard.\u00a0 I have no hesitation using all the latest technology to help me get up and back safely.\u00a0 On my own two feet.\u00a0 Every step of the way.\u00a0 With full acknowledgement of the assistance I’m getting from my friends and guides and gear.\u00a0 That works for me.\u00a0 For a humorous take on this, I refer you to Stephen Colbert… especially 1:20<\/a>.<\/p>\n
\nA: I leave home on March 23, 2015, and plan to be home by June 1.\u00a0 In all likelihood, I’ll be home at least a few days sooner than that, maybe a week sooner.\u00a0 Summit day will be no earlier than May 12.\u00a0 No way to be sure, of course… because we need to wait for a clear weather window before attempting the summit, and that may take days.\u00a0 Our planned schedule is here<\/a> (I will be on a “hybrid” climb, listed in the far left column).<\/p>\n
\nA: BEST… FAMILY…EVER!\u00a0 They know how important this is to me, and they know how careful I am… and so they support me 100%.\u00a0 I am asking a lot of them… Not sure how I got this lucky.<\/p>\n
\nA: BEST COLLEAGUES EVER!\u00a0 Seriously.\u00a0 When I asked for an unpaid leave, everyone was super supportive, including my patients.\u00a0 This will be a hassle for lots of people, and yet they have stepped up in such a nice way.\u00a0 I owe them all, big-time.<\/p>\n
\nA: It happens…. And it can be a real issue up there.\u00a0 I got terribly ill with giardia and shigella last time I was in Nepal, trekking around Annapurna, in 1984.\u00a0 This time I’ll be more careful, slathering myself in alcohol hand rub regularly, will keep my own med kit, and have access to a great medical team through the Himalayan Rescue Association<\/a>.\u00a0 These guys are amazing, and do lots of primary care pro-bono for the Sherpa guides and their families, please check them out.<\/p>\n
\nA: We work hard to avoid this, with careful, patient acclimatization.\u00a0 I’ll use a medication called acetazolamide at bedtime, which stimulates deep breathing by dropping the blood pH.\u00a0 And, we all have access to medications that can help in case someone does develop acute mountain sickness…. But, in that case, we always descend.\u00a0 I have performed well at altitude, and have been sleeping at a simulated altitude of 13,000 feet for a couple months now, but I am humble about this, and ready to take care of myself or my buddies if we get sick.<\/p>\n<\/a>
\nA: Best way is to spend time in the mountains.\u00a0 Period.\u00a0 I am lucky to live in Washington, home of the most amazing mountain range in the lower 48.\u00a0 Because of work, I can’t get out as often as I want to… thus, I have also pursued a mix of workouts at home.\u00a0 Most efficient way when time is tight:\u00a0 Running stairs, or running intervals on my elliptical machine (30 degree incline, 50% resistance, 10,000-13,000 foot simulated elevation, 20 lb backpack, sprint a minute and walk a minute, for 45-60 minutes).\u00a0 Plus, old-school weight lifting, pushups, chinups, wall sits, etc.\u00a0 Nothing fancy.<\/p>\n
\nA: This ain’t Denali, where we haul 60-120# at a time.\u00a0 Everest is about careful pacing and patience… and not destroying my knees.\u00a0 Yes, I have bad knees, and I want to keep them nimble for the upcoming challenge.\u00a0 Our loads will be lighter on this trip.\u00a0 Conventional wisdom is that you should carry very heavy loads to train, then climb light.\u00a0 It makes sense.\u00a0 But, my experience is that heavy loads are tough on my knees, even in training.<\/p>\n
\nA: Lots of stuff!\u00a0 The official gear list is here<\/a>, and it is excellent.\u00a0 I have learned over time exactly what works for me, and what doesn’t, so my version of this kit has been refined over time.\u00a0 You’ll see this stuff in action as the trip continues.<\/p>\n
\nA: There’s a 100% chance I will come home in one piece.\u00a0 As for the summit… Official summit rates are 55-75% with IMG in recent years<\/a>, with excellent safety, which is amazing.\u00a0 I am telling myself 50%, meaning I simply do not know.<\/p>\n
\nA: There are so many amazing organizations that I have been honored to be involved with, in one way or another. \u00a0And, I love it when this crazy sport can be turned into something good for others…. But, in this case, my first shot at Everest, I made a decision to climb for my own reasons. \u00a0I did not want the pressure of letting folks\u00a0back home\u00a0cloud my judgement about safety issues on summit day, etc. \u00a0But, I am delighted to bear the logos and support the efforts of some amazing outfits, including FOP (the Harvard Freshman Outdoor Program)<\/a>\u00a0where I fell in love with the mountains (and made so many friends, including my wife), and the East African Diploma Course in Tropical Medicine\u00a0&\u00a0Hygiene<\/a>\u00a0(in which we train physicians from Africa and around the world every year, in Tanzania and Uganda). \u00a0I also praise UW Medicine<\/a>, the amazing place where I work; the ID Society of America<\/a>, our professional group doing battle with infectious diseases; the Crohn’s & Colitis Foundation of America<\/a>, which is doing amazing things raising funds for IBD research; and the Shining Stars Foundation<\/a>, giving hope to kids living with cancer. \u00a0See… too darn many great causes out there!<\/p>\n
\nA: I will carry a SPOT beacon with me… and will keep it on when we are on the move… unless the batteries go out unexpectedly, which does happen!\u00a0 Do NOT be alarmed if the signal goes out, this gizmo is great when it works, but steep valleys can interfere with its performance.\u00a0 You are welcome to track me here.<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"