{"id":3295,"date":"2016-06-01T16:39:32","date_gmt":"2016-06-01T23:39:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=3295"},"modified":"2019-04-07T12:33:35","modified_gmt":"2019-04-07T19:33:35","slug":"liftoff","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/06\/liftoff\/","title":{"rendered":"Liftoff…"},"content":{"rendered":"

The alarm did not need to sound that night\u2014I was already awake at 1 AM.\u00a0 The usual details needed tending-to in the tent, including a last text message to Julie, and then I was out the door.\u00a0 As I sealed the tent, I took one last look at the postcard hanging from the ceiling, our annual greeting card for 2015, a collage of photos of the family.\u00a0 I watch this card in the beam of my headlamp every night as I fall asleep, marveling at our children.\u00a0 This time will be no different.\u00a0 You\u2019ll be back in a week.<\/em>\u00a0 I wondered how I would feel when I returned: tired but victorious, or beaten and utterly dejected?<\/p>\n

Sniffing the air at EBC, we seemed to have fine conditions for climbing the icefall: just a touch of the Withering Wind, some katabatics, and clear skies.\u00a0 Let\u2019s do this.<\/em><\/p>\n

I did well in the icefall, and felt much stronger than last time. I was pleased with the performance of two new pieces of kit I picked up in Namche: first, a lightweight silk balaclava that hangs loosely over my nose and mouth, providing some warmth and re-capture of exhaled moisture without feeling too tight.\u00a0 Second, a highly insulated Camelbak hydration pack\u2026 sounds like madness, as everyone knows these will freeze in winter conditions, but Bob and Nicky and I decided this system looked tough enough to give it a go (provided we start with scalding water, and wear the system under our shells right next to the body).<\/p>\n

Initially it looked like we would have minimal traffic, with just seven headlamps countable on the route above.\u00a0 But, more and more folks appeared from behind us as we made our way through the glacier.\u00a0 Many were our friends from IMG on different sub-teams, and others were from totally separate expeditions.\u00a0 \u201cJustin, what are all these people doing on our mountain?\u00a0 Didn\u2019t they get the memo that we reserved it for tonight?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019ll be alright.\u201d\u00a0 This is Justin\u2019s 17th Himalayan expedition, and he is shooting for his seventh summit.\u00a0 He really has seen it all up here.<\/p>\n

And of course Justin was right, we were fine.\u00a0 Lots of constipation at the toilet bowl, including some climbers who just could not seem to get their act together, but beyond that things opened up just fine. I was able to make good progress, in fact one of my faster ascents.\u00a0 By the time we topped out on the headwall it was just after 7 AM, meaning about 4.5 hours through the icefall, which is fine.\u00a0 Just conserve your energy dude, this rotation is all about the summit.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"Getting
Getting the spikes on at Crampon Point. You can see the headlamps of a handful of climbers on the route above us. Looks busy today, because so many IMG climbers are headed up at once!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The way out of the toilet bowl. Lots of traffic on this portion today… not a great place to linger.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Climbers
Climbers on my six, approaching the first horizontal ladder of the day, lower icefall behind them.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"First
First vertical ladder of the day… this one makes me leery because of the granite boulder frozen in the ice at the very top… Don’t touch the boulder!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A view to the left of the boulder ladder.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Looking
Looking back at Pumori from the Pit of Despair, our descent line visible at center.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Debris
Debris sitting in the bottom of the Pit of Despair.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pasang
Pasang Kami and I await our turn to climb out of the Pit of Despair.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"This
This horizontal ladder was tricky due to a big bulge of ice, forcing you to lean hard to the right to pass. The line is super rigid, but still requires a stiff upper lip.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"See
See Kim’s expression in closeup? Looks like she’s not sure how this will work out…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The Fearsome Head, a house-sized serac looming over a vertical ladder, seems solid enough… still, not a nice place to linger.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim
Kim and Cristiano and their Sherpa guides pull into the Football Field.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cruising
Cruising into the break.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pasang
Pasang Kami Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa: Brothers, and amazing guides.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cristiano
Cristiano and Nima Dorje\u00a0at the Football Field.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim
Kim and Mingma climb out of the Sea of Destruction to the low-angle headwall base, and approach the vertical portion above.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pasang
Pasang Kami starts up the headwall, first via a sketchy ladder then snow steps.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cristiano
Cristiano tops out on the headwall without even breaking a sweat.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Atop
Atop the headwall. Doesn’t even look tired, does she?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Mingma
Mingma tops out on the headwall like a champ.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pasang
Pasang Kami atop the headwall, route to Camp 1 in the background.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One the way up, in the Sea of Destruction, I was surprised to hear someone call my name from above: it was my lovely buddy Mary Scannell descending with her crew from Jagged Globe.\u00a0 Everyone looks incognito on Everest, but I really had trouble recognizing Mary.\u00a0 She is a beautiful woman who looked… worked over <\/em>by the summit.<\/em>\u00a0 But, her spirit and energy were irrepressible, and we had a quick chat on the lines.\u00a0 I had not realized they were pinned at the South Col in a windstorm for more than a day after reaching the summit–this explained why I had not seen them descending the prior day.\u00a0 No time for details, but it certainly sounded hairy up there. I was so impressed with her, with their entire team, and I focused on my happiness for them rather than the horrors of what it must have been like for them up there.\u00a0 Quick hug and we were each off in opposite directions.<\/p>\n

Camp 1 was washed in beautiful, glorious, flesh-frying sunshine.\u00a0 We made it.\u00a0 Time to relax. \u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

I was amazed to think back to my last time here, when I painted the snow red and green with bloody sputum.\u00a0 Now, I had no cough at all.\u00a0 The satellite text I sent Julie says it all: \u201cSpeedy, solid icefall climb\u2026 Hope it\u2019s my last icefall ascent. Relaxing day at Camp 1; Spartan but beautiful, and fine weather. Fit & well.\u201d<\/p>\n

One of the best parts of this rotation turned out to be climbing with our buddies from the \u201cclassic\u201d IMG team, which allowed us to get to know them better.\u00a0 Previously we had been on a staggered schedule, but now everyone\u2019s acclimatization was on even footing, and the weather dictated when we would leave as a larger group.\u00a0 Fun to chat with these buddies, new and old.<\/p>\n

Justin set about improving camp, meaning dealing with the latrine situation: It had become hopelessly overfull, and needed to be replaced.\u00a0 By the time he was done, we had a brand-spanking-new hole in the snow, complete with a privacy \/ wind barrier.<\/p>\n

The clouds taunted us, staying just out of range from providing shade.\u00a0 So, we sweltered in our tents and on the common ground outside, wishing for cover.\u00a0 And, of course, when the shade finally came it brought sub-zero temperatures that sent us running to stitch up the tents and dive into our big down bags.<\/p>\n

\"The
The tents of IMG Camp 1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Emily
Emily Johnston and Justin Merle. Awesome.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Cristiano
Cristiano is a professional catnapper, able to sleep on a whim. For me, napping is less likely to happen. I’m jealous.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Our
Our tent… Lhotse in the background.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Nuptse
Nuptse looming over Camp 1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The Cwm, ending with Lhotse. Rollers in fine form… little traffic today.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Pumori
Pumori (obscured in cloud cover), Lingtren, and Khumbutse watch us from across the valley.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Welcome
Welcome to the glamorous world of the Hessians in their lair.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Justin
Justin prepares to grapple with the human waste left at Camp 1 from the prior rotation. Messy business… and the best part is the Home Depot bucket that says “Let’s Do This!”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Even
Even after scraping the waste into a crevasse, Justin is careful to cover the skidmark with fresh snow. It’s the little details that count….<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Camp
Camp 1 seen from Justin’s new, pristine lavatory. Nice view, right?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The cloud deck really truly was about 100 meters too far west to provide any meaningful shade. So very, very painful!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Shadows...
Shadows… so… close…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Some
Some of the tools of the trade… sharps are always kept outside the tent.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Life at Camp 1 is simple: just tents in the snow, like you\u2019d find on most any mountain expedition.\u00a0 Usually I think of this as being uncomfortable, but on this rotation it almost seemed like a fresh break from all the cush treatment we\u2019d gotten on the way up.\u00a0 Almost\u2026 I admit that while I was eating my cheese tortellini MRE I missed the fine cooking we get at EBC and Camp 2.<\/p>\n

Concept of the day: All systems go.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The alarm did not need to sound that night\u2014I was already awake at 1 AM.\u00a0 The usual details needed tending-to in the tent, including a last text message to Julie, and then I was out the door.\u00a0 As I sealed the tent, I took one last look at the postcard hanging from the ceiling, our … Continue reading Liftoff…<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3258,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3295","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ascent","expedition-everest-2016"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nLiftoff... - OSM Adventures<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/06\/liftoff\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Liftoff... - 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