{"id":3399,"date":"2016-06-07T20:05:01","date_gmt":"2016-06-08T03:05:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=3399"},"modified":"2017-01-21T20:17:57","modified_gmt":"2017-01-22T04:17:57","slug":"heartbreak-camp-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/06\/heartbreak-camp-3\/","title":{"rendered":"Heartbreak at Camp 3"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Again, the weather behaved as predicted, and we had clear skies and just a bit of wind when we left Camp 2 at dawn.\u00a0 I counted very few figures on the route above us.\u00a0 My lungs felt fine.\u00a0 Not much sleep to speak of, but I still felt fine.\u00a0 <em>Hot damn, we are going to nail this.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3385\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3385\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06112.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3385 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06112-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"At our first break of the day, just below the 'schrund. Raring to go. (Photo: Justin Merle)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06112-800x532.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06112-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06112-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06112-768x510.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3385\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">At our first break of the day, just below the &#8216;schrund. Raring to go. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3388\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3388\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06114.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3388 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06114-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Me grinding out the last steps before a break at Lower Camp 3. (Photo: Justin Merle)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06114-800x532.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06114-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06114-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06114-768x510.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3388\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Me grinding out the last steps before a break at Lower Camp 3. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3390\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3390\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06116.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3390 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06116-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Ramin and Siva approach the break at Lower Camp 3. (Photo: Justin Merle)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06116-800x532.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06116-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06116-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06116-768x510.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3390\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ramin and Siva approach the break at Lower Camp 3. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3354\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3354\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00559.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3354 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00559-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"Siva and Pemba Gyaltsen pull into a break at Lower Camp 3.\" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00559-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00559-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00559-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00559-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3354\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Siva and Pemba Gyaltsen pull into a break at Lower Camp 3.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3355\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3355\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00561.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3355 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00561-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Looking down at the Cwm from our first break a break at Lower Camp 3.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00561-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00561-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00561-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00561-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3355\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking down at the Cwm from our first break a break at Lower Camp 3.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3356\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3356\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00563.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3356 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00563-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"Pasang Kami looking strong.\" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00563-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00563-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00563-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00563-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3356\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasang Kami looking strong.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3357\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3357\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00564.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3357 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00564-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"SIblings? Wondertwins? You decide.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00564-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00564-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00564-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00564-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3357\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Siblings? Wondertwins? You decide.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3358\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3358\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00565.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3358 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00565-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Looking at the route to IMG Camp 3 (aka Upper Camp 3). Last time, this feature was a bulge of pure blue ice. Now, plenty of snow makes the way easier. Nice.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00565-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00565-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00565-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00565-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3358\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking at the route to IMG Camp 3 (aka Upper Camp 3). Last time, this feature was a bulge of pure blue ice. Now, plenty of snow makes the way easier. Nice.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3359\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3359\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00566.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3359 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00566-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Looking left from the break across the Lhotse Face. Yellow Band and Geneva Spur on the right, Everest on the left.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00566-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00566-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00566-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00566-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3359\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking left from the break across the Lhotse Face. Yellow Band and Geneva Spur on the right, Everest on the left.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>And so we did.\u00a0 Bottom line was a door-to-door time of 5:20, just about half of the 10:45 from last time.\u00a0 I actually felt like a mountaineer this time, rather than a fish flopping out of water, gasping for each breath.\u00a0 Knowing the route always helps alleviate anxiety, because I can anticipate where the breaks will (and will not) happen.\u00a0 And conditions were more favorable this time, with a robust snow cap atop the bulletproof blue ice underneath, fine steps kicked by hundreds of feet before us, and no wind blasts or ground blizzards.\u00a0 But, most of all, the difference seemed to be my lungs, which felt and performed well, with only an occasional dry cough during rest stops.\u00a0 In fact, it was a beautiful day, and there were ample opportunities to enjoy the amazing view.<\/p>\n<p>However, I clearly need to work on my situational awareness, because while watching my footing I missed noticing a bottle of oxygen hurtling down the face, close to our route.\u00a0 I learned that this had happened when urgent messages came over the radio, asking for assistance below: one of our Sherpa climbers had been hit by the bottle.\u00a0 The situation was clearly serious, and for long moments we stood on the route, virtually holding our breath, waiting for news from Josh McDowell and Emily Johnston, who were on the scene in a flash and rendered expert aid.\u00a0 IMG Sherpas are our team mates, our colleagues, our friends.\u00a0 <em>Please, please be OK. \u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Thank goodness he was indeed going to be OK.\u00a0 The bottle hit him in the foot, and although there was concern for a fracture, this could have been far worse.\u00a0 His expedition was over, and it took assistance to get him to safety, but the bottom line here was that he had dodged a bullet, so to speak.\u00a0 <em>Keep your eyes open.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>I pulled into camp feeling good, and settled in.\u00a0 Initially I was assigned to the tent that had been salvaged with a spare fly by the prior team during the windstorm.\u00a0 It was misshapen, and somehow sunken down into the snow at an odd angle, so that getting in and out involved dropping down about a foot\u2026 it felt like a snow tunnel I had dug in the front yard as a kid, and looked a bit manky.\u00a0 I liked it.\u00a0 \u201cThis tent looks like a hobbit\u2019s hole.\u00a0 Cool.\u201d\u00a0 I was glad to start moving in.\u00a0 But, Pasang Kami was very displeased that I was assigned here, and ultimately it was decided that I should take a tent in more pristine condition one level above.\u00a0 No worries.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3362\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3362\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00603.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3362 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00603-800x312.jpg\" alt=\"Looking down the Cwm from Camp 3.\" width=\"800\" height=\"312\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00603-800x312.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00603-150x59.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00603-660x258.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00603-768x300.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3362\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking down the Cwm from Camp 3.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3393\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3393\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06132.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3393 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06132-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Camp 3, as seen from the toilet pit. Two tiers of tents exist above these, out of frame to the right. (Photo: Justin Merle)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06132-800x532.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06132-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06132-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06132-768x510.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3393\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Camp 3, as seen from the toilet pit. Two tiers of tents exist above these, out of frame to the left. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3394\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3394\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06133.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3394 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06133-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Ah, there they are. (Photo: Justin Merle)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06133-800x532.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06133-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06133-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06133-768x510.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3394\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ah, there they are. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3392\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3392\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06120.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3392 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06120-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Me sitting in front of my tent, chatting with the Sherpa team, wearing an orange head buff of course. Josh McDowell strutting on the upper catwalk. (Photo: Justin Merle)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06120-800x532.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06120-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06120-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06120-768x510.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3392\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Me sitting in front of my tent, chatting with the Sherpa team, wearing an orange head buff of course. Josh McDowell strutting on the upper catwalk. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3379\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3379\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00589.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3379 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00589-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"Josh McDowell. Awesome.\" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00589-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00589-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00589-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00589-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3379\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josh McDowell. Awesome.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3373\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3373\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00581.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3373 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00581-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Tents of the upper and uppermost tiers at Camp 3.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00581-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00581-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00581-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00581-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3373\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tents of the upper and uppermost tiers at Camp 3.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3365\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3365\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00570.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3365 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00570-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Ramin and his Sherpa guide look down from the middle row of tents at Upper Camp 3. Climbers on the route seen upper left.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00570-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00570-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00570-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00570-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3365\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ramin and his Sherpa guide look down from the middle row of tents at Upper Camp 3. Climbers on the route seen upper left.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3374\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3374\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00582.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3374 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00582-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"And the lower and lowermost tiers. The Hobbit Hole tent can be seen at center... I think the fly looks pretty darn good considering it was deployed in a windstorm emergency. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00582-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00582-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00582-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00582-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3374\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">And the lower and lowermost tiers. The Hobbit Hole tent can be seen at center&#8230; I think the fly looks pretty darn good considering it was deployed in a windstorm emergency.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3396\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3396\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06148.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3396 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06148-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"The Hobbit Hole tent. As you can see, ingress and egress are a bit involved here. (Photo: Justin Merle)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06148-800x532.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06148-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06148-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06148-768x510.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3396\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Hobbit Hole tent. As you can see, ingress and egress are a bit involved here. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3375\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3375\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00584.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3375 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00584-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"Sherpa guides working on the oxygen stockpile. Nicky and Bob's sharps staked out nearby.\" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00584-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00584-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00584-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00584-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3375\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sherpa guides working on the oxygen stockpile. Nicky and Bob&#8217;s sharps staked out nearby.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3372\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3372\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00580.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3372 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00580-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Our amazing Sherpa guides taking care of business at Camp 3.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00580-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00580-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00580-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00580-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3372\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Our amazing Sherpa guides taking care of business at Camp 3.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3380\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3380\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00592.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3380 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00592-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Melting snow into water takes lots of fuel... these isobutane cells are lifesavers.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00592-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00592-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00592-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00592-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3380\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Melting snow into water takes lots of fuel&#8230; these isobutane cells are lifesavers.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3371\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3371\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00579.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3371 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00579-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Trusty Cwm MemBrain bag, draped over the tent to drop the temperature inside from sweltering to merely stifling.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00579-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00579-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00579-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00579-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3371\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Trusty Cwm MemBrain bag, draped over the tent to drop the temperature inside from sweltering to merely stifling.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3370\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3370\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00578.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3370 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00578-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"Our sharps next to the vestibule.\" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00578-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00578-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00578-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00578-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3370\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Our sharps next to the vestibule.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3366\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3366\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00571.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3366 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00571-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Cristiano takes an epic selfie at Camp 3.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00571-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00571-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00571-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00571-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3366\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cristiano takes an epic selfie at Camp 3.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3367\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3367\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00572.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3367 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00572-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"Hard to tell he is happy, right?\" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00572-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00572-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00572-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00572-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3367\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hard to tell he is happy, right?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3382\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3382\" style=\"width: 628px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00599-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3382 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00599-1-628x800.jpg\" alt=\"Bob uses the hand line for safety while moving from the second to the third level at Camp 3.\" width=\"628\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00599-1-628x800.jpg 628w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00599-1-118x150.jpg 118w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00599-1-518x660.jpg 518w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00599-1-768x978.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 628px) 100vw, 628px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3382\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bob uses the hand line for safety while moving from the second to the third level at Camp 3.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3383\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3383\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00600.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3383 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00600-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"Nicky pays us a visit, too. Nice.\" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00600-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00600-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00600-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00600-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3383\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nicky pays us a visit, too. Nice.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3384\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3384\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00601.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3384 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00601-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"We love it up here.\" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00601-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00601-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00601-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00601-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3384\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">We love it up here.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3391\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3391\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06119.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3391 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06119-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Emily Johnston rules Camp 3! (Photo: Justin Merle)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06119-800x532.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06119-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06119-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06119-768x510.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3391\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Emily Johnston rules Camp 3! (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3361\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3361\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00568.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3361 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00568-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"Justin Merle at Camp 3, coordinating the climb via radio. A climber descends the face in the background.\" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00568-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00568-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00568-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00568-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3361\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Justin Merle at Camp 3, coordinating the climb via radio. A climber descends the face in the background.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3364\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3364\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00569.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3364 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00569-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A climber descends the Lhotse Face next to our camp. Note the wreckage of twisted pickets and shredded tents left over from prior expeditions.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00569-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00569-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00569-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00569-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3364\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A climber descends the Lhotse Face next to our camp. Note the wreckage of twisted pickets and shredded tents left over from prior expeditions.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3363\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3363\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00573.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3363 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00573-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Looking up the route from IMG Camp 3. Climbers traversing the face above, lined up below the cliff of the Yellow Band. Summit ridge of Lhotse above.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00573-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00573-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00573-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00573-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3363\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking up the route from IMG Camp 3. Climbers traversing the face above, lined up below the cliff of the Yellow Band. Summit ridge of Lhotse above.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3376\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3376\" style=\"width: 606px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00585.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3376 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00585-606x800.jpg\" alt=\"A climber descending from the summit rappels the ice face immediately above Camp 3. A good option if you are exhausted or not confident of your grip strength or ability to step carefully. \" width=\"606\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00585-606x800.jpg 606w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00585-114x150.jpg 114w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00585-500x660.jpg 500w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00585-768x1015.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 606px) 100vw, 606px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3376\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A climber descending from the summit rappels the ice face immediately above Camp 3. A good option if you are exhausted or not confident of your grip strength or ability to step carefully.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3378\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3378\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00586.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3378 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00586-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Everest, with snow plume in full bloom.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00586-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00586-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00586-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00586-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3378\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Everest, with snow plume in full bloom.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3395\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3395\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06139.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3395 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06139-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Emily clearly loves Camp 3. (Photo: Justin Merle)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06139-800x532.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06139-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06139-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06139-768x510.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3395\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Emily clearly loves Camp 3. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3368\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3368\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00575.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3368 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00575-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"View of the Cwm below from sitting in front of my tent.\" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00575-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00575-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00575-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00575-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3368\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of the Cwm below from sitting in front of my tent.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3369\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3369\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00587.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3369 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00587-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Camp 2 in telephoto from my tent platform.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00587-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00587-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00587-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00587-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3369\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Camp 2 in telephoto from my tent platform.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3397\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3397\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06155.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3397 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06155-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Kim emerges from the Hessian lair just before sunset. (Photo: Justin Merle)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06155-800x532.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06155-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06155-660x439.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC06155-768x510.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3397\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kim emerges from the Hessian lair onto the catwalk just before sunset. Note the hand line strung across the tents&#8230; important, because that first step is a doozy.\u00a0 (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>My tent mate had not yet arrived, so once I had given myself some time to breathe in some supplemental oxygen (0.5 liters per minute), I decided to check in with my wife via satellite text.<\/p>\n<p>My InReach text thread with Julie:<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> Great climb, feeling good, nice conditions, oxygen working well.\u00a0 Could not have gone better.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie:<\/strong> FABULOUS.\u00a0 Camp 3?<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> Yes, my precious.\u00a0 Camp 3.\u00a0 23,700 feet AMSL.\u00a0 Last time took 11 hours.\u00a0 This time 5:20.\u00a0 Average 7 hours [is typical].\u00a0 You are married to a mountain stallion \/ goat (take your pick).<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie:<\/strong> Also do you want me to post anything to the blog?<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> You can copy my FB post.\u00a0 That would be super.\u00a0 Love you.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie:<\/strong> I think you\u2019re drunk on bottled O2.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> Hardly touching the stuff.\u00a0 Drunk on hypoxia more like it. I cannot tell you how relieved I am.\u00a0 Did not realize how terribly ill I was last time.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie:<\/strong> Not the part about the stallion goat?<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> I was dreading this section of the climb, it was torture last time.\u00a0 I thought it was me.\u00a0 Turns out I was sick as hell and in denial.\u00a0 Sound familiar?\u00a0 And\u2026 I stand by my stallion goat.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie:<\/strong> Is everyone else doing better?<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> All better, one member still a bit ill but lots better.\u00a0 He just beat his prior time by 3 hours.\u00a0 We are all on target.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie:<\/strong> When else were you sick as hell and in denial?<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> Me (sic) not a good patient with cold and flu, true?\u00a0 Holy Moses, one of the Sherpa is smoking.\u00a0 #oxygenitsagoodthing.<\/p>\n<p>As I entered this message I heard a ruckus right outside the tent.\u00a0 Several team members began to shout at the same time.\u00a0 \u201cArrest!\u00a0 Arrest!\u00a0 Stop!\u00a0 <em>Nooooo!<\/em>\u201d\u00a0 Then, sounds of shock and horror.\u00a0 I dropped the iPhone and stuck my head out the tent door.\u00a0 The face was as calm and serene as ever, but a tragedy had just happened: A climber had slid past camp at high speed on his back. He had not seemed to respond to our calls, or to attempt to stop himself.\u00a0 In all probability, he was unconscious at best, if not dead already.\u00a0 He had disappeared out of sight down the face.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI hope he makes it,\u201d said a teammate. \u201cMaybe they can get to him near the bergschrund.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>I looked at her for a moment, while the gravity and reality of the situation sank in for both of us.\u00a0 Then I said, \u201cI\u2019m afraid he is gone.\u00a0 I cannot imagine anyone surviving a fall down the whole face.\u00a0 I doubt that has ever happened.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>We listened carefully to the radio for news.\u00a0 Within an hour, some details emerged.\u00a0 This was a Sherpa climber, working for a different outfit to fix the route on Lhotse.\u00a0 He had fallen\u2014somehow\u2014from the route above Lhotse high camp, and slid all the way over and past the bergschrund.\u00a0 His body had been recovered and flown off the mountain.<\/p>\n<p>Each of us was numb, and shocked, and grieved in our own private way.\u00a0 <em>How could this happen?\u00a0 Why wasn\u2019t he clipped in?<\/em>\u00a0 I thought of his family, who had almost certainly just lost both their loved one and also their main breadwinner.\u00a0 What sort of benefits would come their way?\u00a0 What would become of his children, if he had them?\u00a0 Inevitably I thought of my own wife and kids.<\/p>\n<p>Julie\u2026 as soon as the accident happened, I had one thought:<em> I have to tell Julie.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>The InReach thread continues:<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> Darling, a totally different topic\u2026.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie<\/strong> (in response to my comment about me being a terrible patient): True, although you\u2019ve improved since your Denver Health days.\u00a0 (I was notorious for never missing a day\u2019s work, even when so sick with diarrhea that I needed to round with an IV in place\u2014thank goodness this kind of idiocy is no longer tolerated.)<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> A totally different topic: While I have been texting with you from my tent a climber was killed falling down the Lhotse Face.\u00a0 Stranger to us, not IMG.\u00a0 This is why we always always always clip twice.\u00a0 There are so many unqualified people here.\u00a0 It is sobering.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie:<\/strong> Right this minute?\u00a0 While we were texting???????<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> Yes dear.\u00a0 We saw him slide past.\u00a0 Nothing we could do.\u00a0 This type of tragedy is impossible with standard technique.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie:<\/strong> Can I mention this in the blog, v briefly?\u00a0 So people won\u2019t worry when they hear the news?\u00a0 OMG you saw it??????\u00a0 I am messaging Blake (my buddy and teammate from last year\u2019s expedition).<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me<\/strong> (about 30 minutes later): It was a Sherpa fixing Lhotse.\u00a0 No protection.\u00a0 No excuse.\u00a0 I did not watch, was in tent texting you.\u00a0 No need to blog or FB, the story will break with this info.\u00a0 (We have a strict rule that bad news is not to be blogged etc, to protect the next-of-kin from hearing the news in this way.)<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie:<\/strong> But I don\u2019t want people worrying when they hear the news.\u00a0 I notified your family.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Me:<\/strong> OK.\u00a0 Trust you.\u00a0 We are fine.\u00a0 I am going out to greet my tent mate.\u00a0 Back in 30.\u00a0 Text if u go to sleep.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Julie:<\/strong> Love you.<\/p>\n<p>Soon thereafter, our teammates arrived in camp.\u00a0 Some were stoic.\u00a0 Others burst into tears.\u00a0 They had been very close to the fallen climber when he slid past, and it had clearly been a horrifying experience.<\/p>\n<p>I did not push, but my tent mate was eventually eager to talk about the experience.\u00a0 He had initially thought he saw a sleeping bag heading down the face, spinning over and over on the ice\u2026 until he saw a head, and realized this was a person.\u00a0 As with us, there were no responses to his calls, and no intentional movement was seen.\u00a0 Knowing now that this person had fallen from high on Lhotse, we agreed that he had probably already passed away from injuries sustained when sailing over the Yellow Band, if not higher.\u00a0 We tried to take comfort knowing that he had not suffered during the fall, but it was cold comfort.<\/p>\n<p>Life at Camp 3 continued, and we were busy getting ready for the rigors of the following day.\u00a0 But, I quietly focused on this loss.\u00a0 At the start of this rotation I had believed\u2014truly believed, down to my bone marrow\u2014that this year would be accident-free.\u00a0 It sounds daft, but I felt that Nepal, and Everest, and the Sherpa people deserved year without death.\u00a0 So much loss, tragedy, and senseless punishment in recent years\u2026 <em>Now is the time for a simple, beautiful, serene, boring season.\u00a0 Enough death.\u00a0 This year will be different.<\/em>\u00a0 I had focused on this during our blessing ceremony with Lama Geshi.\u00a0 I had envisioned this during the Puja ceremony.\u00a0 We had worked hard to take care of ourselves, to ensure that we put no one in harm\u2019s way.\u00a0 And still\u2026 this man was gone, forever.\u00a0 <em>Please, please let this be the only loss this season. \u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p>A nice surprise came our way that afternoon: Our bottles for the following day were prepared for us, with regulators in place and ready to go.\u00a0 This was a treat: We are trained to prep the bottles for ourselves, but they sometimes develop small leaks that can be tough to detect, and to prevent this (oddly) one must pour hot water onto the chrome fitting that extends from the bottle proper.\u00a0 This takes a bit of time and energy (just a bit), so it was nice that our Sherpas and guides had taken care of this for us in advance\u2026 we would share a bottle at low flow overnight, then switch to high flow on the new bottles as we left camp in the morning.<\/p>\n<p>Sleeping on a liter per minute of supplemental oxygen was like a dream compared with the last time I had been there.\u00a0 No more hallucinations, no cough, no searing dry throat or uvula acrobatics\u2026 the mask fixed these issues.\u00a0 Once it was adjusted for tightness and position, I was able to get a few hours of sleep, before the 5 AM wakeup.<\/p>\n<p>In the darkness, my thoughts turned to the lost climber.\u00a0 Time and again I wrestled them back to home, where I watched our children playing and laughing in the back yard on a warm summer day.\u00a0 Everything I wanted was there: my wife and kids\u2026 all the food and drink you could imagine (especially sushi and platters of Greek food)\u2026 restful times in the lounge chairs\u2026 and sweet oxygen by the lungful.\u00a0 <em>The next 48 hours will be the hardest of your life, but then you will be done.\u00a0 You can go home.\u00a0 <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Focus<\/span>.\u00a0 It will hurt, but pain is nothing.\u00a0 You will never suffer up there.\u00a0 You will keep your promise: <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">You will go home<\/span>. \u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Concept of the day: <em>Always clip twice.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Again, the weather behaved as predicted, and we had clear skies and just a bit of wind when we left Camp 2 at dawn.\u00a0 I counted very few figures on the route above us.\u00a0 My lungs felt fine.\u00a0 Not much sleep to speak of, but I still felt fine.\u00a0 Hot damn, we are going to &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/06\/heartbreak-camp-3\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Heartbreak at Camp 3<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3387,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3399","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ascent","expedition-everest-2016"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Heartbreak at Camp 3 - OSM Adventures<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/06\/heartbreak-camp-3\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta 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