{"id":3430,"date":"2016-10-09T21:16:31","date_gmt":"2016-10-10T04:16:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=3430"},"modified":"2019-04-07T13:37:05","modified_gmt":"2019-04-07T20:37:05","slug":"to-the-south-col","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/10\/to-the-south-col\/","title":{"rendered":"To the South Col&#8230;"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span class=\"embed-youtube\" style=\"text-align:center; display: block;\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" class=\"youtube-player\" width=\"604\" height=\"340\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/a0FCtX172S0?version=3&#038;rel=1&#038;showsearch=0&#038;showinfo=1&#038;iv_load_policy=1&#038;fs=1&#038;hl=en-US&#038;autohide=2&#038;wmode=transparent\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" style=\"border:0;\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts allow-same-origin allow-popups allow-presentation allow-popups-to-escape-sandbox\"><\/iframe><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">After I came home, I was asked the same questions over and over again: Did you make the summit?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Did you use oxygen?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Would you do it again?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And\u2026 How did you go to the bathroom?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The answer to that last one depends on the phase of the expedition you have in mind, but on the Lhotse Face, the answer is, \u201cVery carefully.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>During the night I always peed into my bottle in the sleeping bag, then kept it close by to prevent freezing, and emptied it outside in the morning.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But defecation is a different matter\u2026 we never do that in the tent.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At Camp 3 there was a dedicated latrine area a few meters from the tents.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It was just a hole in the snow, not a particularly private or safe spot.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I recalled the story of a Taiwanese climber who perished here in 1996 after sliding in his smooth-soled boots down into a crevasse while attempting to relieve himself.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The easiest way to avoid such a fate is to just hold it, and wait for the comparatively flat South Col for relief.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I decided that waiting would be a bad idea.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>As the expedition progressed, we all lost substantial muscle mass\u2026 no matter how much we ate, our muscles were consumed for calories preferentially over the fuel in our intestines.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This meant not only that we had lots of solid waste to purge, but also that our pelvic muscles had to work even harder to keep it inside.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>You hear about climbers taking imodium before they summit, just so they will not have to deal with this issue\u2026 but, in my experience, it\u2019s better to leave camp without a \u201cround in the chamber,\u201d as Doug Black says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">So, in the middle of the night, I got into my suit, put my boots on, and headed to the latrine.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Doing this with oxygen seemed like overkill, so I went without it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was careful to hold the hand line as if my life depended on it\u2026 because it did.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It was a stark experience.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A cold wind drifted down the Face, making any exposed skin uncomfortable, then painful, then numb within several minutes.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>From the orb of my headlamp, the sky appeared utterly black.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Once I was settled, however, I switched the lamp off and allowed my eyes to adjust.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Starlight pierced a broken ceiling of clouds, outlining the ragged ridge running from Lhotse to Nuptse on my left, the monolithic summit block of Everest on my right, and the Cwm thousands of feet below, stretching into the distance.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><em>This is Everest: At once mundane and sublime.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>By the time I finished my fingers were painfully cold, and I had to be extra careful with my grip of the hand line while heading back to the tents.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A teammate arrived just as I was leaving, so focused on the same task that he did not want to chat.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Back in the tent, I found that the condensation lining the inside of my mask had frozen.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It\u2019s important to clear the valves of ice before starting the flow again, because this can cause the small rubber diaphragm on the intake port to pop off and fly away under increased pressure from the line.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A few hot breaths into the mask melted the ice, and I got back into the rhythm of breathing into the warm, wet rubber, then plugged the red tube into the bottle via a T-splitter, and got my tent mate\u2019s line plugged into the other side.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That night we were sharing the bottle at a gentle flow of 1.5 liters per minute split between the two of us, or about 0.75 liters per minute each.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Does not sound like much, but our bodies could feel the benefit, even when resting.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The difference compared with my last time sleeping at Camp 3 was substantial\u2026 no more hallucinations, and a much more humid breathing environment in the mask.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I zipped back into the sleeping bag, arranged the tubing and reservoir, and closed my eyes.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The soundtrack in my mind:<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Sometimes when this place gets kind of empty<br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\">The sound of their breath fades with the light<br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\">I think about the loveless fascination<br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\">Under the milky way tonight<br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\">I wish I knew what you were looking for<br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\">I might have known what you would find<br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\">And there\u2019s something quite peculiar<br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\">Something shimmering and white<br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\">It leads you here despite your destination<br \/>\n<\/span><span class=\"s1\">Under the milky way tonight<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p4\">\u2014<a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/track\/1RCtHLyq1xIbgGMrYRrKJ2\">The Church<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I listened to the bagpipe chorus in my mind, one of my favorite musical refrains.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But, as usual above EBC, I slept poorly.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In snippets of 15-30 minutes I would drift off until the prior day\u2019s calls of my teammates to the dead climber shook me awake.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In my mind I watched him fall, over and over again, pummeled to death after sailing across the Yellow Band.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>How could we press on in light of this loss?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My rational side made sense of the situation: <em>Many have died here already, and more will probably die in the future.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The only difference is that you were close to it yesterday.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\"><em>\u00a0<\/em> <\/span><em>Stick to your plan, and climb safely<\/em>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But, my emotional side remained shaken.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I kept a close eye on the clock, and counted down the time until our wake up at 4 AM.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Sleep, dammit.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>You may not get another chance for the next 48 hours<\/em>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But, no good.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My \u201cmonkey mind\u201d was chattering away, jabbering about the pain of the days to come, and the risks we were about to take.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Shut up and go to sleep, you stupid monkey<\/em>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I went to a calm place, resting in a hammock with my family on a warm tropical island, drenched in their affection, and breathing in the warm, humid air, with a refreshing breeze rolling in from the surf.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This helped\u2026 but not for long.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The sounds of our Sherpa guides preparing hots in the tent next door woke me, and I disarmed the alarm before it sounded.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I crawled through the vestibule to check the conditions: Everything looked perfect.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Clear sky, mild katabatic winds, a dimly lit frozen blue world.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The summit was right there, dark rock against the pale dawn, a small plume ripping majestically towards Tibet.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And I thought, <em>Bring it<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Julie.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I wanted her to hear that all was good with me, especially after the previous day\u2019s tragedy.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My text to her: \u201cHi.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Slept well.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Busy getting ready to move to C4.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Weather good.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Should get there around noon.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Love you so much.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Julie: \u201cHow soon until you leave?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Me: \u201c5:30.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>1:15 to go.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Julie: \u201cThinking of you nonstop.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Me: \u201cThx love.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Same here.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">While I prepared for the day, I focused on the words of my friend Jason, who had summited successfully in 2010.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He was a huge help to me during the expedition, serving as a coach and mentor\u2026 and a kind of court jester.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>His text messages always made me smile.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Several days earlier he had pinged me on the InReach: \u201cJust two more hard days again P2.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I know you can do it!!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The SUMMIT is very worth all the suffering you are dealing with.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>[Camp] 3 to 4 is a rest day in your pocket.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I held onto those words, \u201ca rest day in your pocket,\u201d like a crutch.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Today won\u2019t be that bad<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Pasang Kami visited us at 5:00 and provided warm water.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It was not the piping hot <em>chu<\/em> to which we were accustomed, but it would be just fine.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Breakfast did not have to be my usual hot oatmeal\u2026 instead, one and a half snickers bars, a fistful of smoked almonds, and several dried mango strips would do nicely.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My main concern was that the water would freeze up high.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I had brought a 1.2 liter steel HydroFlask thermos, two 500 ml plastic Nalgene bottles, and the heavy-duty insulated CamelBak.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>On this day, I would fill the HydroFlask and the CamelBak\u2026<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>to save weight, the Nalgenes would remain empty.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I knew that if it went in scorching hot, the water would stay liquid in the Flask for at least six hours (if kept insulated in my pack), but the CamelBak would freeze much sooner unless it went in steaming, even if I wore it under the down suit, next to my base layer.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>No worries, just drink the CamelBak first<\/em>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Taking a hydration system like this up high went against my training and experience.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Real mountaineers never use hydration systems in the high wilderness, where they are just unreliable.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But it had worked so well up to now, even on the freezing cold Face the prior day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I knew that if I blew air back into the line after drinking, there would be no water in there to freeze.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Dealing with the mask was going to be a hassle, and being able to sip water from the long tube any time I wanted\u2014not just at rest stops\u2014seemed to outweigh the risk of the system freezing.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Besides, dropping in some electrolyte powder that Justin had lent me would depress the freezing point a bit.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was obsessed with water on this rotation, and envisioned the consequences of dehydration: thickened blood leading to a deep vein thrombosis in my leg, a pulmonary embolism, a heart attack, or a stroke.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>You will drink plenty today.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This will be fine.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Mornings are always a frenzy of activity on the mountain, and this was no different.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>There was not much to organize, because almost everything was headed up the mountain with us.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Only my helmet, lightweight climbing gloves, and some snack food would remain behind at Camp 3, where I would pick them up on the way down.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I got my kit together on time, although it felt like hard work, especially stuffing my -40 degree sleeping bag into its compression sack.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>For the second time this trip, the sack had sustained a crampon wound and begun to split.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I had replaced the first sack, which ended up torn to ribbons during the prior rotation.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And now, the replacement was shot, too.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It had not been my crampon\u2026 but, whomever had stepped on the bag, it mattered not.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was not angry, just frustrated because the tear would enlarge with every thrust I made into the sack.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I did not want the bag to start flapping in the breeze when Pasang Kami strapped it heroically to the outside of his own pack.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Yes, once again our Sherpa guides had offered to carry our sleeping bags and pads to the South Col.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In fact, these items were almost always hauled by them during the expedition.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This was more than kindness, and more than their paid duty\u2026 it was the only way we would have a shot at the summit, and everyone knew it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Every gram up there makes a difference for us, and so does every cubic centimeter.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Volume became a real concern that day, because we had new guests in our packs: Oxygen cylinders.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">We were trained to use IMG\u2019s oxygen system, and things had gone well that night while we slept on the bottles.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But now it was time to climb with them.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The cylinders had been hauled up the mountain by our Sherpa teammates, painstakingly, in the previous days.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Now, bottles were stockpiled at Camp 3 and Camp 4, and it was our job to use them.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Everyone on the mountain uses the same cylinders, manufactured by a Russian company called Poisk.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Except for us.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Some years ago Eric Simonson pioneered the use of a different bottle which holds about three times as much gas as the Poisk bottles.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>To keep them light, they are made of ultra-thin aluminum, reinforced with a mesh of tightly-woven fiberglass fabric.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>We are proud to carry these cylinders, because they provide an additional measure of safety, and cannot easily be used by other mountaineers (whether desperate or unscrupulous) because ours require different regulators.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But\u2026 man, are they bulky.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The bottle was the last thing for me to pack, and I was stunned to realize that my pack was already quite full even before I added the bottle, which seemed to require about one third of the pack volume.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>How am I going to do this?<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I looked at my tent mate, who was a bit behind me in the packing process, but also quite daunted by what he was seeing.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Seriously, how in the hell am I going to do this?<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In the end, of course, I was able to cram in everything that I needed.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But it really was tight.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">As I hauled the pack to the vestibule, I realized that it weighed much more than I had bargained for.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>About 17 pounds more.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At sea level, this amount of weight is trivial.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Up high, however, it is a different story.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The tradeoff is clear: For the increased weight of the compressed gas, we get a substantial boost in performance\u2014and safety.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The benefits are worth the investment of pain.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>We knew this moment of reckoning would come.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>But oh my god this thing weighs a ton.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>No matter.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It was time to strap in and get moving, in a pack that was substantially heavier than any I had worn all expedition.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><em>Will you be strong enough?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Let\u2019s find out.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><em>But first, get into your harness, boots, and crampons.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3416\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3416\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.13.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3416 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.13-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"View from the snow in front of my tent, looking down at the Cwm, as I get my harness on. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.13-800x450.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.13-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.13-660x371.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.13-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3416\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">View from the snow in front of my tent, looking down at the Cwm, as I get my harness on. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3425\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3425\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.16.33.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3425 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.16.33-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Kim and I wave good morning while we gear up for the day. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.16.33-800x450.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.16.33-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.16.33-660x371.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.16.33-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3425\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kim and I wave good morning while we gear up for the day. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Putting on these last items was always a chore.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And that day I moved more slowly than usual, even with supplemental O2 flowing.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I donned the Olympus Mons boots in the tent, wearing my merino liner gloves.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The issue here is that the boot velcro tends to stick to the gloves, ripping their fingertips out\u2026 something I did not want to happen just before summit day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>With care, I got them on, then moved outside and sat in the vestibule.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Camp 3 bustled with activity.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I saw Kim standing in front of her tent on the platform below mine, and we waved, my first contact with Team Hybrid since the prior afternoon.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My buddies and guides had camped one tier below me, and we had only chatted briefly when I went down for a visit after the tragedy.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>So, I was a bit out of touch with them this morning\u2026 based on everyone\u2019s state of dress, I realized that I was behind: the others were already wearing their harnesses and crampons.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>They would leave any minute.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Focus, and get ready.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>For some reason, I took several minutes to put on my harness\u2026 it just wouldn\u2019t come untangled from the frozen mess it had become overnight in the vestibule.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Looking back at my video footage of this now, it\u2019s clear that my thinking and coordination were not normal that morning.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">While checking the fit and rigging of my harness, I did have the presence of mind to recite the mantra I say every time I put it on, in memory of the loss of my hero on the other side of the mountain all those years ago: \u201cNo more Marty Hoeys, God rest her hot amazing soul.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Marty made a mistake with her harness, and she paid for it with her life.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>No mistakes today.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3426\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3426\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.18.47.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3426 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.18.47-800x451.jpg\" alt=\"Pasang Kami and Sherpa Fura check in with me while I get my harness on outside the tent at Camp 3. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"451\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.18.47-800x451.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.18.47-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.18.47-660x372.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.18.47-768x433.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3426\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasang Kami and Sherpa Fura check in with me while I get my harness on outside the tent at Camp 3. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">While I was preparing to go, Pasang Kami and Sherpa Fura came to check on my progress.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Fura served as an interpreter for Pasang\u2014something we had never done before\u2014to make it totally clear that he was eager to haul more of my gear that day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Not only the sleeping bag and pad, but anything else I wanted to give him.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This was totally unexpected, and amazing\u2026 and also a bit rattling, as it implied that he felt my performance had not been fast enough the prior day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At least, that\u2019s how I interpreted it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But I did not care.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This was a kind of godsend, given the weight of my pack.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I gave him my full HydroFlask, saving me over a kilogram of weight.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cYes, OK,\u201d he said.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cWhat else?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">There were so many tempting items in my pack to hand over: the extra batteries, the summit mitts, the backup down sweater\u2026. all tempting to give him.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But I did not want to do that.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He is mortal, too, and would be fighting up there like the rest of us.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Although I was weak and fragile compared with my Sherpa guide, I still had my pride, and I still wanted to do this with some shred of independence and dignity, maybe a modicum of style.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cNothing else Ang Kami.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I\u2019m good.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cNothing?\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>They both looked surprised and a bit concerned.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cNo thank you, I\u2019m good.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I looked back into the tent one more time, to be sure I had not forgotten anything.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>All that remained behind was the O2 cylinder we had shared that night, with my regulator still attached.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The bottle Josh McDowell had delivered earlier already had a regulator attached, so no need to bring a second one.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I dialed in 3 liters per minute on the regulator, got the mask on, and hoisted the pack with Pasang Kami\u2019s help.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Holy living\u2026 so much heavier today.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Breathe.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>You can do it<\/em>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I buckled the hip belt by feel (it was impossible to see while wearing my mask and the bulky down suit).<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I made sure that the USB cable ran more or less out of my field of view between the GoPro on my head strap and the auxiliary battery in my suit, not too tight to limit my range of motion, but not too slack so that it flopped forward and bugged me. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It did anyway, but not too badly.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Standing on the catwalk in front of the tent, I realized that only Siva and I remained in camp; our teammates had already departed.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Two IMG guides would sweep the rear that day, Josh McDowell and Emily Johnston.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Emily was working with Siva on the lower platform, so Josh and I would start out together.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was glad to have this opportunity to climb with Josh.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>We had climbed Aconcagua together in 2013, where he kept us smiling and laughing the whole way.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>After I saw him save a team during a real-deal whiteout on summit day, I came to admire him greatly.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Like all IMG guides, he had what it took to keep us happy and safe. In fact, he is one of my favorite people.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This time, Josh had been guiding a different sub-group for most of the expedition, so climbing with him was a fun aspect to the day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I asked him to confirm that my GoPro was recording, and he gave me a thumbs up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And we were off.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3417\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3417\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.51.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3417 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.51-800x451.jpg\" alt=\"Josh McDowell answers the question every GoPro owner asks... &quot;Is it on?&quot; (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"451\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.51-800x451.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.51-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.51-660x372.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.17.51-768x433.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3417\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josh McDowell answers the question every GoPro owner asks&#8230; &#8220;Is it on?&#8221; (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Pasang Kami led the way, stepping down to the hand line that ran to the latrine and climbing route above that.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I had grasped the line many times in the prior day, but somehow this was different: I felt awkward, heavy, unbalanced, and slow.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>To compensate, I clipped into the hand line with my safety carabiner.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Pasang Kami immediately started walking towards the main climbing line.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Not rest-stepping, just walking at a normal pace, as if we were on a sidewalk in New York City.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Justin was about 20 meters ahead of him, and Pasang Kami clearly wanted to catch up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The rest of the team was lined up in a tight column, almost at a standstill, below the great bulge of blue ice that loomed above\u2026 two Sherpa climbers from another team were on the main line below us, but they would not get in the way\u2026 so there was no rush to catch up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I repeated Emily Johnston\u2019s exhortation to me from the day before: <em>Move at your own pace, not the Sherpas\u2019.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This is no sprint<\/em>.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3415\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3415\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.23.23.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3415 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.23.23-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"Pasang Kami encourages me to clip the hand line in Camp 3 as we prepare to move out. No encouragement needed.... (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.23.23-800x449.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.23.23-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.23.23-660x370.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.23.23-768x431.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3415\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasang Kami encourages me to clip the hand line in Camp 3 as we prepare to move out. No encouragement needed&#8230;. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3414\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3414\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.21.52.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3414 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.21.52-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"My teammates ascending the Lhotse Face immediately out of Camp 3. Everest on the left, Geneva Spur at center, Yellow band under that. Josh McDowell in foreground. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.21.52-800x450.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.21.52-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.21.52-660x371.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.21.52-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3414\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">My teammates ascending the Lhotse Face immediately out of Camp 3. Everest on the left, Geneva Spur at center, Yellow band under that. Josh McDowell in foreground. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">A minute later, the detritus of camp was behind us, including the toilet pit and the aluminum snow pickets from prior years, which were twisted and bent at obscene angles under the weight of successive avalanches.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The hand line ended at a snow anchor about a meter below the climbing line.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>As I bent forward to unclip from the hand line, I found that I could not reach the main climbing line at the same time: I would have to unclip and take a step up unprotected.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Here, the angle of the Face was not too severe, and Pasang Kami was there to assist.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I took the step and clipped into the climbing rope, no problem.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And I said to myself, consciously, <em>You will not do that again today.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Not even once.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3413\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3413\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.19.29.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3413 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.19.29-800x448.jpg\" alt=\"Pasang Kami leads the way out of Camp 3. Column of teammates above. Toilet pit on the right. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"448\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.19.29-800x448.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.19.29-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.19.29-660x370.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-11X15.19.29-768x430.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3413\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasang Kami leads the way out of Camp 3. Column of teammates above. Toilet pit on the right. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">I looked up at the route: The column of my friends lined up below the steep ice bulge\u2026 the mustard-colored rocks of the Yellow Band above\u2026 the dark stone of Lhotse outlined sharply against a seamless pale sky. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Breathe.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Remember this.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Take it with you until you die.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Everything from here forward will be new.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3418\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3418\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.32.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3418 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.32-800x448.jpg\" alt=\"Looking back at Camp 3 as we head up. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"448\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.32-800x448.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.32-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.32-660x370.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.32-768x430.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3418\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking back at Camp 3 as we head up. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3419\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3419\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.51.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3419 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.51-800x451.jpg\" alt=\"Climbers from another team ascending the fixed lines below us as we start out for the day. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"451\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.51-800x451.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.51-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.51-660x372.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.47.51-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3419\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Climbers from another team ascending the fixed lines below us as we start out for the day. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">I had envisioned this part of the climb every day for the last year.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I had dreamed of this section.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And now, I was climbing into that dreamscape.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I wanted to step to the beat of a metronome pulsating from deep beneath the mountain\u2026 to kick my feet into the ice and send reverberations out into the master plan of the universe\u2026 to savor each moment as a fulfillment of my lifetime\u2019s ambition.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Instead, the work of climbing consumed me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I looked for my rhythm but had a tough time finding it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>So many systems competed for my attention in those initial minutes.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The homemade shoulder straps for the CamelBak continuously slipped down over my left deltoid\u2014always the left, although I have no idea why\u2014and that restrictive feeling across my left biceps drove me crazy.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My oxygen mask leaked a bit around my nose, which was not a major problem, but worried me for fogging potential later in the morning when I would wear goggles.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The GoPro tended to slide to one side or another on my elastic head strap.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The USB power cable would slip out of position and into my field of vision, and when I tried to tuck it into my suit it felt too tight.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The auxiliary battery switched off automatically after a certain period of time\u2014not sure what period of time, but perhaps 5 minutes\u2014so that every time I wanted to shoot I had to first pull it out of my down suit\u2019s inner chest pocket and look at the indicator lights to ensure it was on, then fire up the GoPro by squeezing the power button and listening intensely for the three beeps.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>With the camera in its lexan housing, and with the windstopper fleece balaclava on, I could hardly hear the little beeps.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Without anyone behind me, the rope fell slack above the last anchor, so that I had to pull it taught with my left hand behind the ascender, which is awkward and exhausting.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Slack lines are perfect for descending, but a drag on the way up.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I was so grateful for Justin\u2019s recommendation to climb without a helmet: it would have been just one more source of distraction and aggravation.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Breathing is always the top concern up high: no matter how I try to hyperventilate before we get started, I always feel winded in those first minutes on steep terrain\u2026 even at 3 liters per minute from the bottle.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I focused on <a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/track\/68yPgTp7gcDED7KdOlGD9C\">Holly Drummond\u2019s lyrics<\/a> like a mantra of pain:<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Do you suck the life from me?<br \/>\nMake it hard just to breathe?<br \/>\nNo, I won\u2019t be a fool<br \/>\nI won\u2019t play by your rules<br \/>\nYou can\u2019t keep your hold on me<br \/>\nIn and out\u2026 breaking free<br \/>\nBreathe in\u2026 breathe out<br \/>\nYou are suffocating me\u2026<br \/>\nBreathe in\u2026 breathe out<br \/>\nSet me free\u2026.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">My biggest concern in those first minutes was temperature: I was absolutely burning up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I wore my favorite Patagonia long sleeve quarter-zip T shirt, then a lightweight Ibex merino hoodie.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>On my legs, a pair of Ibex merino briefs, then two pair of medium weight long underwear (one merino, one synthetic).<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And the down suit.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Even in the deep shadow of Lhotse, with all my zippers open, I felt my core temperature shoot up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I tried to climb\u00a0slowly to generate less heat, which I knew would help eventually.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But the route was steep right out of the gate as we headed up to the first ice bulge.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I wanted to catch the main group, and to prevent the climbers below from overtaking me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I knew that my breathing would settle, and that my oxygen hunger would subside, as my heart rate rose to a new equilibrium.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>This happens every time you start out on steep terrain.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Don\u2019t panic.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Just take it easy.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Breathe.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/em>I sipped warm water from my CamelBak hose.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">But it was no use.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I would overheat if I did not make a change.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I wanted to tell Pasang Kami, and to have his help with the transition, but he was too far ahead to hear me shout through the mask.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I stopped and struggled out of the suit sleeves, taking the pack off one shoulder at a time, then stuffing the sleeves behind me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My sweat-soaked arms felt better right away, and for a short time I was able to climb more comfortably.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I would not need to get those sleeves on again until we were above the bulge.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">We approached the bulge in lockstep, a tight team stepping in the bootprints of our predecessors, like climbing a long set of stairs.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The feature had looked intimidating from Camp 3, but as often happens it was perfectly fine once I actually started climbing it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My breathing settled\u2026 my core temp fell back towards normal\u2026 my hands felt good&#8230; my feet were perfect.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>This is what climbing Everest is all about.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3427\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3427\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.29.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3427 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.29-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"Climbing the first ice bulge out of Camp 3. Plume blossoming from the summit of Everest on the left. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.29-800x449.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.29-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.29-660x371.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.29-768x431.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3427\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Climbing the first ice bulge out of Camp 3. Plume blossoming from the summit of Everest on the left. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3424\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3424\" style=\"width: 3837px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.16.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3424 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.16.jpg\" width=\"3837\" height=\"2154\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.16.jpg 3837w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.16-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.16-660x371.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.16-768x431.jpg 768w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.50.16-800x449.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 3837px) 100vw, 3837px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3424\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giving a thumbs up to Justin, who is looking back from near the top of the first ice bulge after leaving Camp 3. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">I shot footage of the column as it made its way up the bulge, and gave Justin a thumbs up: All was well.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I looked back over my shoulder at the Cwm, stretching down towards EBC, under a flawless blue sky.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Siva was transitioning at the anchor below me, and I gave him a thumbs up, too, then turned to face the route again, and turned the camera off.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Some of my teammates had already topped out on the bulge and stepped out of view.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Moments later, a shocking sight: a climber appeared from over the top of the bulge, flying through the air and down the Face several meters to our left.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He was in a seated position, feet forward, reminiscent of someone trying to glissade on purpose.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But this was no glissade.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He fell to the ice like a rag doll thrown by an angry giant.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>After sliding for a moment he hit another bump and became airborne again, then slammed down onto the ice once more, his head whipping violently to the side, crushed against the frozen ground.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I struggled to understand who this was, as I did not recognize him immediately under his red suit, white hat, and black rubber mask.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In an instant he rocketed past me, well out of reach by several meters, but so tantalizingly close.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Although the whole fall lasted only several seconds, my perception of time slowed down as he passed by.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This is an effect of adrenaline.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I once heard an interview with a fighter pilot who recounted a dogfight during the Korean war: The MiG he was hunting slid in front of his Sabre, and he automatically started counting the rivets in his opponent\u2019s tailpipe\u2026 I think he got to 11 before realizing that his finger was only then beginning to obey his brain\u2019s command to squeeze the trigger.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Here, in this moment on the Lhotse Face, some details were utterly lost on me, while others seared their way into my memory.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The white oval IMG sticker on his oxygen reservoir\u2026 the sickening sound of his suit and backpack scraping the ice\u2026 the violent thrashing his head took when it hit the Face\u2026 these observations will stay with me forever.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">He was trying to arrest, struggling to dig his right elbow into the ice, but it bounced off with every bone-jarring bump.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I knew, down deep in my core, that this would fail.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He was on his back, sliding with an axe strapped uselessly to his pack, on steep solid blue ice.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">This was a fatal fall, and I was watching him die.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">As he passed by, fast as a luge rider, thoughts stacked up in my mind in a flash: <em>Who is he?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>How could he have come unclipped?<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>For some reason, the timing of the accident was outrageous to me: <em>We are only a few minutes out of camp\u2026 We are only a few minutes out of camp!<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Dying on summit day was one thing, but this seemed somehow worse, somehow\u2026 inexcusable.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>This is exactly what happened yesterday.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>NOT AGAIN!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Stop!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>STOP!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>STOP!!!!!<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">And then: <em>His family will be devastated.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I wished the camera was on to capture this, for them.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Days later, when the team assembled at EBC after the climb, we shared our memories of this moment.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Kim\u2019s experience was the worst among the witnesses: Atop the bulge, she saw him slip from the corner of her eye, just next to her.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Instinctively, she reached out to grab him\u2026 but she could not get a firm grip.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>His pack\u2019s shoulder strap zipped through her gloved hand\u2026 and he disappeared over the ridge.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>She did not even bother to watch him fall.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cI just looked down at my boots.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I didn\u2019t want to watch him go, because I knew he was already dead.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">But we were wrong.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Within seconds, as he slid towards Camp 3, the ride came to an end.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>There was just enough of a small rise there, a kind of low crest of snow on the face, to stop his slide.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He jolted to a halt, still in a seated position, and propped himself up with his right hand.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">In my hypoxic state, heart slamming in my chest, hyperventilating, eyes as wide as saucers, fingers gripping the ascender so tightly that my fingernail beds throbbed for hours afterwards, I thought: <em>That\u2019s a fucking miracle.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Justin descended the line and within seconds was at my side.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cWho was that?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cI don\u2019t know,\u201d I said.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cOne of our Sherpa. I saw the IMG sticker on his reservoir bottle.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cIf he was wearing a mask, it wasn\u2019t a Sherpa.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This dawned on me slowly.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He was right\u2026 because our Sherpa were still breathing ambient air at this elevation.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Which meant the fallen climber must be one of the team members\u2026.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Someone wearing a red suit\u2026 not Kim\u2026 not Steven\u2026 not Siva\u2026 not Nicky\u2026 not Bob\u2026 which left only\u2026<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><em>Cristiano<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><em>That\u2019s Cristiano.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><em>My team mate.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My tent mate.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><em>My friend.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I watched him struggle to remain seated.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He was clearly in a daze, wrestling with his backpack, trying to remove it while keeping stable.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Emily Johnston and Josh McDowell happened to be near his landing site.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>From her position clipped to the climbing rope, Emily called out to him, \u201cCristiano, don\u2019t move!\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cI\u2019m afraid that I will fall if I take off my pack,\u201d he said in a slow, distracted voice.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cDON\u2019T MOVE!\u201d she and I shouted in unison.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He was held in place by his crampon points sticking into the ice, and nothing more.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The Cwm yawned hungrily, thousands of feet below.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cSTAY STILL CRISTIANO!\u201d I yelled into my mask.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He seemed to become too tired to struggle, and slumped down a bit into the ice.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><em>Record this.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I thought I switched the camera on, only to learn days later that somehow, I had failed to get the shot.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I suspect that the auxiliary battery had switched off moments earlier.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Josh fetched the rescue rope from his pack, put Emily on belay, and paid out the line carefully while she walked to Cristiano, perhaps 20 meters away.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At one point, the snow broke free from beneath her, and she punched through above her knees.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">This was a snow bridge.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Cristiano had been stopped by a crevasse, and now it wanted to eat him and Emily for breakfast.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Within moments she had climbed free and continued to him.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>She put him on belay and started her primary survey.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I turned to Justin.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cI\u2019m going down.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cNo.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He\u2019s in good hands.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I want you moving up.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cAre you sure?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Let me help.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cHe\u2019s in good hands.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Emily knows what she is doing.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cWe go up?\u201d asked Pasang Kami.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I tried to process the accident.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My teammate had just fallen on the Lhotse Face, pummeled against blue ice, and only a miracle had stopped him.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I have read lots about Everest, and cannot recall such a fall ending this way.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Less than 24 hours earlier the same thing had happened in the exact same spot, with fatal results.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My addled, hypoxic brain tried to make sense of the situation\u2026 how could it?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Cristiano looked okay down there, conscious and sitting up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And Emily is a very experienced mountaineering doctor, the best, no doubt.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Josh was there, too, and Cristiano\u2019s climbing Sherpa, Nima Dorje, was headed down to assist.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Justin and our teammates were already heading uphill.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>You would probably just get in the way.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cOK,\u201d I said.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cUp.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>It felt wrong to keep going.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I desperately wanted to know what was happening down there.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I assumed that he would be able to walk down under his own power, or perhaps to spend the night at Camp 3, and try again the next day if all was in order.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But what was going on?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>For the next hour I tried to follow the radio chatter, but it was very difficult\u2026 Pasang Kami carried the radio for both of us, and he was always at least a few steps ahead.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Plus, it was difficult to understand the conversation from under my fleece balaclava, especially with the sound of my own breathing into the mask.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I could often hear a female voice, with what sounded like an American accent\u2026 <em>That must be Emily giving report to EBC<\/em>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I could not understand a word she was saying, but I could hear the optimism in her voice, and a singsong, almost chatty cadence to her sentences.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>She sounded confident.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Everything must be OK.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Everyone is still heading up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Everything must be OK<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Somewhere in my mind, partially suppressed, was the question, \u201cWhat would you have done if he hadn\u2019t stopped?\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I pondered this for a moment, and the answer became clear.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I watched the scenario play out in my mind: His body being retrieved from the bergschrund\u2026 being flown down from Camp 2\u2026 being flown home in the belly of a passenger jet\u2026 with me on board, accompanying him home, heartbroken, delivering him to his survivors\u2026 watching from the window as yet another season slipped by, wasted by tragedy and ruin, grieving for my friend, bitter about the loss of my elusive dream for the second time, happy to be alive, but guilty that I had survived.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><em>Focus, Paul<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Less than an hour after I topped out on the ice bulge, Josh McDowell caught up with me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He reassured me that Cristiano was fine\u2026 and that he was climbing up once again.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I had assumed he would head down, or at least spend the night in Camp 3 to reassess things.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cReally?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That is amazing!\u201d I said, shaking my head slowly.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>I must have misjudged this whole incident<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cI\u2019m sorry to ask,\u201d Josh said with a sheepish look, \u201cbut are you clipped in twice?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I showed him my rig and gestured in a way that said, \u201cAre you serious?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cI know,\u201d he apologized.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cGreg told me to make sure everyone is clipped in twice.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>You are good.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I asked how this had happened to Cristiano, and Josh said he did not know.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cJust clip twice and you are good.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Getting back into the sleeves of my down suit had cost me some time, and the column had pulled ahead.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Josh was clearly in perfect shape, and wanted to move faster.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cI\u2019m going to go ahead, if that\u2019s OK.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cAbsolutely.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Rock on.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He stepped smoothly past me and Pasang Kami.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That was the last time I would see him until Camp 4.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3421\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3421\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.55.26.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3421 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.55.26-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Pasang Kami looks back from an anchor to check on my progress. Yellow Band ahead on the left. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.55.26-800x450.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.55.26-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.55.26-660x371.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.55.26-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3421\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasang Kami looks back from an anchor to check on my progress. Yellow Band ahead on the left. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3422\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3422\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.57.31.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3422 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.57.31-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Looking back down the route above the first ice bulge... Cristiano fell from this ridge. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.57.31-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.57.31-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.57.31-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X12.57.31-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3422\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking back down the route above the first ice bulge&#8230; Cristiano fell from this ridge. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Above that first ice bulge, the route continues straight up the Face, then cuts a climbing traverse to the left, ending in the Yellow Band.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The Band is one of Everest\u2019s most celebrated features: A layer of yellow rock that winds its way across the upper mountain.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>On the South side, the route crosses the Band at approximately 24,700 feet.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Its lower edge is a small cliff, about 30 feet high.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Above that, it rises obliquely for perhaps a hundred feet until it merges gently with the ice of the Face.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is a fabled obstacle with a reputation for being challenging to overcome, some say even tougher than the Hillary Step.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I wanted to be in prime shape for the cliff, and decided to take a sip of water from the CamelBak.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Nothing.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I took a couple breaths, then tried again.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Again, it felt like sucking on a stone.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Must be a little ice in the line\u2026<\/em> had I remembered to blow back after that last sip?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I could not recall\u2026 maybe the chaos of the accident had distracted me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Only a little ice in the tubing that I could see\u2026 <em>Should be fine<\/em>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I blew as hard as I could into the line, blew until my ears popped and air bubbled from the corners of my eyes.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But, no good: I could not clear the line.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The bite valve itself must be the issue.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I chewed on the valve like a gummy bear, breathed on it, spit on it, probed it with my tongue, kept it in my mouth\u2026 anything to warm it up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>No good.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>When I massaged it with my gloved fingers, I expressed a thick, rubbery, odd kind of ice from the opening, like nothing I have seen before, but reminiscent of plastic sea ice.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The electrolytes had depressed the freezing point, but not low enough.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I fought a sense of panic.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>You are fine.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It will thaw later, when the temperature rises\u2026 if we get sunshine.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The bladder is still full of liquid water, feel it sloshing against your back under the suit?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>You can pour it into the 500ml Nalgene at a break.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Ang Kami has a whole hot liter for you in his pack.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>You will be fine.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Still, I wondered what else would go wrong that day.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">The sun rose above Lhotse and flooded the Face with light, and some warmth too.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I had chosen to start out from Camp 3 without wearing eye protection, because the wind was light, and goggles and glacier glasses inevitably fog up when I sweat.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The only question is when it will happen, and the longer I can go without wearing them, the longer it will take for them to fog.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But, once the sun hits, there is no other option: eyes must be covered, lest corneas become sunburned.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That morning, when we sat down to take a short break below the Yellow Band, I reached into my down suit pocket and pulled out the goggles: not only would it be bright, but also the wind was picking up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Might be more than minor katabatics\u2026.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/em>I watched spindrift swirl down on us in miniature vortices.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Miolangsangma, please stay calm today<\/em>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Goggles tend to fog up faster than glacier glasses, but they afford much better wind protection.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Getting into goggles always feels like I have stepped out of the weather and into a warm house: the comfort is immediate, and my whole face\u2014indeed, my whole body\u2014begins to relax.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">High clouds scooted in, filtering the sun, and creating a sundog: a circular rainbow surrounding the sun like a halo.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I smiled, cracking the seal on my mask, when I remembered seeing sundogs for the first time with my buddy Dev in Antarctica.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He\u2019s Irish, and the concept of a leprechaun chasing itself in circles in search of the pot of gold blew his mind.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Vinson seemed like a lifetime ago, even though it had actually been just two and a half years.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3423\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3423\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.04.49.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3423 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.04.49-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Approaching the dogleg leading to the Yellow Band. Sundog appearing over the ridge. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.04.49-800x450.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.04.49-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.04.49-660x371.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.04.49-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3423\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Approaching the dogleg leading to the Yellow Band. Sundog appearing over the ridge. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3436\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3436\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.38.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3436 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.38-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Looking back as the column makes progress up the Lhotse Face, and turns the dogleg towards the Yellow Band. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.38-800x450.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.38-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.38-660x371.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.38-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3436\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking back as the column makes progress up the Lhotse Face, and turns the dogleg towards the Yellow Band. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Nima Dorje, Cristiano, and Emily Johnston arrived at the break spot.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Cristiano looked remarkably good\u2014indeed undaunted\u2014with his trademark smile.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He had injured his hip in the fall, and sustained a swollen lip and left cheek.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He denied a headache, but I knew that he had bumped his head, so while he ate an energy bar I lifted his fleece hat: A golfball-sized hematoma sat just above his right eye.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cHoly shit Cristiano.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Does this hurt?\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He had no idea what I was talking about.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>There was no stepoff or deformity around it\u2026 he had not fractured his skull, just suffered a big, big bruise.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And I thought, <em>Maybe those helmets were not such a bad idea after all<\/em>. \u201cYou\u2019re looking good, man.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cThank you.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3428\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3428\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.06.52.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3428 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.06.52-800x451.jpg\" alt=\"ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.06.52\" width=\"800\" height=\"451\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.06.52-800x451.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.06.52-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.06.52-660x372.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.06.52-768x433.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3428\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Selfie at a break near the dogleg.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3434\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3434\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.10.50.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3434 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.10.50-800x451.jpg\" alt=\"Giving a thumbs up to Nima Dorje soon after the dogleg leading to the Yellow Band. Our tents at Camp 3 barely visible near the bottom of the column of climbers. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"451\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.10.50-800x451.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.10.50-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.10.50-660x372.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.10.50-768x433.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3434\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giving a thumbs up to Nima Dorje soon after the dogleg leading to the Yellow Band. Our tents at Camp 3 barely visible near the bottom of the column of climbers. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3464\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3464\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00610.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3464 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00610-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Cristiano waves from behind Nima Dorje as the column rounds the dogleg. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00610-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00610-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00610-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00610-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3464\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cristiano waves from behind Nima Dorje as the column rounds the dogleg.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3433\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3433\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.07.32.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3433 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.07.32-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"Pasang Kami is looking great at a break below the Yellow Band. Note... he climbs with no supplemental O2! (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.07.32-800x449.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.07.32-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.07.32-660x370.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.07.32-768x431.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3433\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasang Kami is looking great at a break below the Yellow Band. Note&#8230; he climbs with no supplemental O2! (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3457\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3457\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.54.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3457 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.54-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Nima Dorje at the break, Cwm below. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.54-800x450.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.54-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.54-660x371.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.54-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3457\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nima Dorje at the break, Cwm below. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3456\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3456\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.29.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3456 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.29-800x451.jpg\" alt=\"Cristiano looks great at the break below the Yellow Band... Emily Johnston pulls in behind him. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"451\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.29-800x451.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.29-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.29-660x372.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.09.29-768x433.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3456\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cristiano looks great at the break below the Yellow Band&#8230; Emily Johnston pulls in behind him. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">When we packed up to leave the break I dropped a small ziplock bag containing the T-splitter for my oxygen system.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It instantly slid down the face, on a slow and majestic trip down the mountain.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I did not need it again, because we would breathe our own O\u2019s from here on up\u2026 in fact, I should have left it at Camp 3\u2026 but, this served as a good reminder to keep my kit together.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Leaving rubbish on the mountain is a cardinal sin, at least in my book.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That day I shrugged it off because there was simply nothing to be done once it fell beyond my reach.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Moving up the route, I focused squarely on the Yellow Band.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Our team\u2019s column packed tightly at the base, in fact remained tight all the way up the cliff.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Why are they moving so slowly?<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Almost as if on queue, Greg called from EBC for a situation report, and Justin replied from the top of the Band in a very chipper manner: \u201cWell, we\u2019re stuck in a traffic jam of our own making!\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Greg\u2019s laugh was unmistakable over the radio, and he commented that at least we couldn\u2019t get upset about the traffic if we were the cause.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In fact, some climbers from other expeditions had become inserted in our midst, but he was right: most of the Band was being climbed by IMG.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A second rope branched off to the right, up a steeper section of the cliff, but this was really for rapping down\u2026 there was no choice but to stand in line and wait.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3435\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3435\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.13.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3435 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.13-800x451.jpg\" alt=\"The column tightens up at the base of the first Yellow Band cliff. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"451\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.13-800x451.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.13-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.13-660x372.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.11.13-768x433.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3435\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The column tightens up at the base of the first Yellow Band cliff. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3437\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3437\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.13.05.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3437 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.13.05-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"Headcam selfie as I give a thumbs-up to Pasang Kami below the Yellow Band. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.13.05-800x449.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.13.05-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.13.05-660x370.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.13.05-768x431.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3437\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Headcam selfie as I give a thumbs-up to Pasang Kami below the Yellow Band. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3460\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3460\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00606.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3460 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00606-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Selfie looking up mountain, Cwm below. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00606-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00606-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00606-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00606-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3460\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Selfie looking up mountain, Cwm below.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3465\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3465\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00604.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3465 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00604-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Climbers descending the route, rapping the alternate line down the Yellow Band, seen to the right of our column. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00604-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00604-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00604-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00604-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3465\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Climbers descending the route, rapping the alternate line down the Yellow Band, seen to the right of our column.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3461\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3461\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00615.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3461 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00615-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"The column approaches the Yellow Band... Everest's plume forming up. \" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00615-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00615-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00615-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00615-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3461\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The column approaches the Yellow Band&#8230; Everest&#8217;s plume forming up.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Two climbers descended the rap line, then walked towards us.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Because the slope was so steep, we were forced to stay on the same downhill side of the line.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Passing was awkward, with a drop of about 3,000 feet below, and steep ice above.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The first of these climbers chose to unclip totally from the line once he reached me, because his tether was not long enough to clip past my body.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Instinctively, I grabbed his pack to support him until he clipped the line again.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Holy cow, I hope we don\u2019t have too many more of those today.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I knew that there were more climbers above, eager to descend after summiting yesterday, and I wanted to make the South Col before they all started down.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Gradually, the conga line moved up the Yellow Band cliff, one step at a time.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Amazing\u2026 the rock really is yellow!<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A second line was fixed to the face, a yellow twisted static rope that looked to be several seasons old but still perfectly fine as a backup.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I positioned myself between it and the main climbing rope.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Having two lines was a luxury, and allowed me to ascend with greater confidence and safety.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Climbing this section was awkward because of the bulletproof blue ice hiding under a couple centimeters of fluffy powder\u2026 because of the mixture of snow, ice, and rock\u2026 because it was very steep\u2026 because there was so little air to breathe\u2026 because climbers traversing above were kicking tennis-ball-sized snow bombs down onto us\u2026 and because the folks ahead of us were genuinely slow.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At this point, I was breathing 3 liters per minute, and they may have been at a lower flow rate.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>They were not with our team, so I have no idea.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>All I knew was that they seemed to be moving in a trance, as if wading through molasses.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>They huffed and puffed after every step.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>That must be what I looked like on the last rotation.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I could manage this cliff with two or three breaths per step\u2026 they seemed to take ten at least.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At the top they stopped entirely, and fiddled with gear for what felt like long minutes.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>I\u2019m perched on my front points here, dudes!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Get out of the way!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/em>I repositioned into a French herringbone stance and rested my gastrocs that were starting to pump out.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>One of the climbers handed a metal thermos to the other, and they started moving again, staggering upwards.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>What the hell.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3462\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3462\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00614.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3462 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00614-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Everest beyond the Geneva Spur, which in turn is seen beyond the Yellow Band. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00614-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00614-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00614-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00614-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3462\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Everest beyond the Geneva Spur, which in turn is seen beyond the Yellow Band.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3463\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3463\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00612.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3463 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00612-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Looking down the Cwm... our tents of Camp 1 are visible in the full-res version, just past and right of the shadows in the middle. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00612-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00612-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00612-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00612-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3463\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking down the Cwm&#8230; our tents of Camp 1 are visible in the full-res version, just past and right of the shadows in the middle.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3439\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3439\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.19.57.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3439 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.19.57-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"First crossing of the day... this turned out to be first of about a hundred climbers we would meet coming down the lines. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.19.57-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.19.57-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.19.57-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.19.57-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3439\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">First crossing of the day&#8230; this turned out to be first of about a hundred climbers we would meet coming down the lines. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3440\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3440\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.20.25.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3440 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.20.25-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"This view gives a better sense of the slope angle below the Yellow Band. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.20.25-800x449.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.20.25-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.20.25-660x370.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.20.25-768x431.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3440\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">This view gives a better sense of the slope angle below the Yellow Band. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3441\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3441\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.22.39.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3441 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.22.39-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Another Sherpa climber descending the route. Many experienced Sherpa mountaineers are veterans of prior expeditions, which they wear with pride written on their down suits, as this man does. Four prior Everest summits are logged on his suit. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.22.39-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.22.39-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.22.39-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.22.39-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3441\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another Sherpa climber descending the route. Many experienced Sherpa mountaineers are veterans of prior expeditions, which they wear with pride written on their down suits, as this man does. Four prior Everest summits are logged on his suit. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3442\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3442\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.26.21.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3442 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.26.21-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Ground blizzard kicks up while we await our turn to climb the Yellow Band. Overall, winds were not too bad on this day. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.26.21-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.26.21-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.26.21-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.26.21-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3442\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ground blizzard kicks up while we await our turn to climb the Yellow Band. Overall, winds were not too bad on this day. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3443\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3443\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.29.22.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3443 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.29.22-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"That's better. Climbers on the cliff above kick snow and ice down onto us, but nothing big or hazardous. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.29.22-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.29.22-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.29.22-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.29.22-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3443\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">That&#8217;s better. Climbers on the cliff above kick snow and ice down onto us, but nothing big or hazardous. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3458\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3458\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.41.17.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3458 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.41.17-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Looking back at the route from the bottom of the first Yellow Band cliff... column of climbers reaches back to Camp 3. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.41.17-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.41.17-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.41.17-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.41.17-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3458\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking back at the route from the bottom of the first Yellow Band cliff&#8230; column of climbers reaches back to Camp 3. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3444\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3444\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.36.11.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3444 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.36.11-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Pasang Kami steps gingerly over the line in preparation for ascending the cliff face. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.36.11-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.36.11-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.36.11-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.36.11-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3444\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasang Kami steps gingerly over the line in preparation for ascending the cliff face. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3459\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3459\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.22.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3459 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.22-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"The first Yellow Band cliff, Cwm below. A discarded rope from at least two years ago remains frozen in place. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.22-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.22-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.22-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.22-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3459\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The first Yellow Band cliff, Cwm below. A discarded rope from at least two years ago remains frozen in place. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3445\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3445\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.38.19.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3445 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.38.19-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Up we go. Holy smokes, the climbers in front of us were very, very slow on this pitch. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.38.19-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.38.19-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.38.19-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.38.19-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3445\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Up we go. Holy smokes, the climbers in front of us were very, very slow on this pitch. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3446\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3446\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.39.31.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3446 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.39.31-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"A nice surprise at the base of the Yellow Band cliff: A second line of static woven rope appears. Serves well as a backup handline. Posh to be sure.... (GoPro Screenshot) \" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.39.31-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.39.31-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.39.31-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.39.31-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3446\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A nice surprise at the base of the Yellow Band cliff: A second line of static woven rope appears. Serves well as a backup handline. Posh to be sure&#8230;. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3447\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3447\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.40.07.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3447 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.40.07-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"See that solid ice under the thin skin of snow, beneath Pasang Kami's crampons? Makes for a spicy ascent. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.40.07-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.40.07-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.40.07-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.40.07-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3447\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">See that solid ice under the thin skin of snow, beneath Pasang Kami&#8217;s crampons? Makes for a spicy ascent. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3448\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3448\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.03.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3448 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.03-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Partway up the cliff. Ice, snow, and rock at 24,800 feet. Nice. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.03-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.03-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.03-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.43.03-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3448\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Partway up the cliff. Ice, snow, and rock at 24,700 feet. Nice. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3449\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3449\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.45.26.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3449 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.45.26-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"The slope eases as we near the top of the cliff. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.45.26-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.45.26-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.45.26-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.45.26-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3449\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The slope eases as we near the top of the cliff. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3450\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3450\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.47.12.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3450 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.47.12-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"More blue ice revealed by the footsteps of my predecessors. No worries, this is what front points are for. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.47.12-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.47.12-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.47.12-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.47.12-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3450\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">More blue ice revealed by the footsteps of my predecessors. No worries, this is what front points are for. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3451\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3451\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.48.43.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3451 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.48.43-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Rock features are helpful here underfoot. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.48.43-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.48.43-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.48.43-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.48.43-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3451\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rock features are helpful here underfoot. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3452\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3452\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.52.30.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3452 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.52.30-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"A climber above us rests on the lines at the top of the first Yellow Band cliff. Not on the other side of the line, but right on it. Dude, you are hurting us! (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.52.30-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.52.30-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.52.30-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.52.30-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3452\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A climber above us rests on the lines at the top of the first Yellow Band cliff. Not on the other side of the line, but right on it. Dude, you are hurting us! (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Jugging up the Band, I had a flash of pain in my right side: ribcage pain.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This feeling in the right side of my chest had started with the respiratory illness I had acquired earlier in the expedition: Sharp, stabbing, severe, and instantaneously triggered by coughing.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But, so long as I did not cough, I had no pain.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Back then, it was clear to me that I had strained or perhaps even torn an intercostal muscle\u2026 the realization that I had in fact fractured the rib did not strike me until after I was safely home.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>As a physician, making the diagnosis of a broken rib should have been easy.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But I was trying to diagnose myself.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I must have subconsciously suppressed this possibility.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>If not, I would have to admit that I was climbing Everest with a broken rib\u2026 and that would be crazy.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Besides, so long as I kept my chest and arm at the proper angle, and so long as I did not cough, it really did not hurt.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">As Pasang Kami and I topped out on the first cliff, I saw that the column had pulled away from the pair of \u201cslowpokes\u201d in front of us.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It would be challenging to catch up now.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A few rock bands and mini-cliffs cut across the broad snowfield that banked steeply up towards Lhotse.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>We climbed on the line anchored to the snow between these rocks.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At one particularly steep point there were again two ropes in parallel, intended to reduce traffic by providing an up and down route.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Great idea!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Too bad some descending climbers chose to clip into the line we were already ascending.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Again\u2026 what the hell.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I watched Nima Dorje and Cristiano negotiate this tiny traffic jam, gave them a thumbs up, then turned my attention to the route above.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3453\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3453\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.54.45.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3453 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.54.45-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Here we go, moving again... (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.54.45-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.54.45-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.54.45-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.54.45-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3453\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Here we go, moving again&#8230; (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3454\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3454\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.56.33.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3454 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.56.33-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Another climber descending the route... too bad the empty descent rope on the right was not chosen, but there it is. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.56.33-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.56.33-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.56.33-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.56.33-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3454\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another climber descending the route&#8230; too bad the empty descent rope on the right was not chosen, but there it is. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3455\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3455\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.57.56.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3455 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.57.56-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Trading a thumbs up with Nima Dorje as we climb the Yellow Band. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.57.56-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.57.56-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.57.56-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X13.57.56-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3455\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Trading a thumbs up with Nima Dorje as we climb the Yellow Band. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">The Lhotse Face moderates a bit above the Yellow Band, where the mountain resembles a vast snowy bowl.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At the far end of the bowl, on climber\u2019s left, is a dark stone cleaver, a small peak that stands up like a whale fin against the sky: The Geneva Spur.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In my imagination before the expedition, it was not much of an obstacle at all, a simple choss pile to be hiked across, like being on Kilimanjaro again.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And, from here at the top of the Yellow Band, the Spur did look quite benign.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>There was a solid line of climbers coming down its face, descending obliquely to the bowl\u2026 and another knot of climbers heading up, right at them.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I watched this for a moment.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And my heart sank.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Yesterday\u2019s summiteers.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Here they come.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3469\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3469\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.00.41.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3469 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.00.41-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"The last stones of the Yellow Band pass beneath us. Next objective: The Geneva Spur, above and to the left. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.00.41-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.00.41-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.00.41-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.00.41-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3469\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The last stones of the Yellow Band pass beneath us. Next objective: The Geneva Spur, above and to the left. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">As we trudged upwards, towards the descending climbers, I saw a rope split off to the right.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>That\u2019s the rope to Lhotse high camp.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Sure enough, a tight cluster of four tents sat at the top of the line.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Above that, a thin, long, stunningly straight snow-filled couloir shot up to the black summit block of Lhotse.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Our plan had been to climb this mountain after Everest, to tag two of the 8000ers in one expedition.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It was Kim\u2019s suggestion originally: like her, this plan was bold, audacious, and slightly mad.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Wonderfully, refreshingly, undeniably mad.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Everest would be the biggest climb of our lives, and to head up above 8,000 meters again the day after summiting Planet Earth was a very tall order.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Come to think of it, Kim may have suggested the idea casually, on a lark.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Regardless, although it may have been her plan, the idea had rooted deeply in my brain, where it flourished.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>For months Lhotse had fed my dreams, inspired my workouts, and tantalized my imagination in every sense.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The expedition would be even more remarkable for this \u201ctwofer\u201d accomplishment.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In the end, it did not pan out: the extra expense was just too much for us to secure<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>early enough in the planning process.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>When our deadline passed, and I realized that Lhotse would not be in the cards, part of me suffered and died.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I mourned the loss of this summit, grieved over it, replayed the climb in my imagination as though I were failing to resuscitate a dying patient.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Now, all these months later, here it was: the line was right there, tied into our rope, heading up the austere couloir to one of the world\u2019s great summits.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And I didn\u2019t give a damn.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Not one tiny, little, iota of a damn.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>I\u2019m climbing Everest.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Fuck Lhotse.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3468\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3468\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.02.24.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3468 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.02.24-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"The tiny yellow spot at center are the four tents that comprise Lhotse high camp. Although you cannot see it from here, it sits at the bottom of a straight-shot couloir that goes right to the summit block (seen top right). (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.02.24-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.02.24-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.02.24-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.02.24-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3468\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The tiny yellow spot at center are the four tents that comprise Lhotse high camp. Although you cannot see it from here, it sits at the bottom of a straight-shot couloir that goes right to the summit block (seen top right). (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3471\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3471\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.36.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3471 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.36-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Looking back at the route at climbers from another expedition. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.36-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.36-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.36-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.36-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3471\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking back at the route at climbers from another expedition. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Near the Lhotse line, we stopped to take a short break.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Radio chatter picked up, and through my windstopper fleece balaclava I heard Greg thanking and encouraging my teammates above to help care for a fallen climber ahead on the route.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I could not make out the details, but it sounded like he knew this particular climber who happened to be with a different expedition and was suffering from some form of altitude-related illness.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My buddies had stopped to assist him\u2026 he was down, not able to stand or walk, and it occurred to me that this was really bad news above 25,000 feet.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I could see them about 200 meters ahead, stopped on what looked like a very gentle, expansive spot on the route, just below the steeper portion of the Spur.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>They were clustered around the fallen climber on the line, right at the moment when about 50 climbers were descending through that spot.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It looked like they could just unclip and lie down in the snow above the trail.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Why don\u2019t they just unclip and let the other climbers pass more quickly?\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3470\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3470\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.01.11.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3470 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.01.11-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"As we approach the next dogleg below the spur, a large traversing section, a column of descending climbers comes into focus. Some of our teammates are helping an ill climber at center of screen. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.01.11-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.01.11-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.01.11-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.01.11-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3470\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">As we approach the next dogleg below the spur, a large traversing section, a column of descending climbers comes into focus. Some of our teammates are helping an ill climber at center of screen. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">I checked my watch: <em>Jeezischrist it\u2019s 10:30 in the morning!<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I had planned to make Camp 4 by 11:00.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That way, I knew beyond the shadow of a doubt that I could breathe 3 LPM the whole way up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Now, with the accident and with all this traffic, I still had to make the upper traverse, climb the Spur, and haul ass to the South Col.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>It sure as hell won\u2019t be a five-hour day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Perhaps noon\u2026.?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Dammit.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I knew what this meant.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was still wearing my pack (taking it off was always a slow experience), so I asked Pasang Kami to turn my flow rate down to 2.5 LPM.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I heard the hissing gas become slightly quieter, and it filled the reservoir a bit more slowly, not what I wanted on my way up Everest.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I did not know how many PSI were left in the bottle, but it did not matter.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Converting PSI to LPM and estimating climbing time left was beyond me at this point.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Barring a catastrophe, I knew that I could make it on this lower rate for a couple more hours, probably longer.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>It\u2019s OK\u2026 2.5 is still plenty.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>You\u2019ve got this.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Moving again, the column of descenders came closer and closer\u2026 and suddenly we were jammed together on the line at a virtual standstill.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>One rope, two directions of traffic, and no margin for error.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Fortunately the incline on this portion of the traverse was relatively gentle, so everyone had a good stance during the passage.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>No talking was necessary: those of us going up had the right of way, and those descending needed to move their safety carabiners past us, one at a time.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>When a down-climber clipped past me I would advance my ascender a few inches until it reached the next climber\u2019s gear, then take a step and wait for that climber to clip past.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Everyone was courteous and efficient, at least as efficient as this process could possibly be.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">As we made this slow, inelegant dance on the line, I fought a sense of urgency.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My cylinder was getting lighter by the minute\u2026 3.2 grams lighter per minute, to be exact.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The idea of running out of gas before the South Col was terrifying, even though I knew this would not happen now that I was down to 2.5 liters per minute of flow.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That Geneva Spur was looking steeper and steeper as we got closer\u2026 would 2.5 LPM be enough?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Would this crazy traffic jam cost me my dream?<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">As always, the Sherpa climbers displayed stunning strength at altitude.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>One who passed me had a full pack, so full that his extra gloves were strapped to the lid\u2026 and he had empty Poisk cylinders strapped to his pack.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>That guy has three cylinders\u2014no, four!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Wait\u2026 five\u2026 six\u2026 SEVEN cylinders on his pack!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>SEVEN CYLINDERS!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/em>Even in my altered state of mind, I thought: <em>How much is that guy earning up here?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That does not look safe to me.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">A lighter moment during the passage: A climber saw the US flag on my sleeve and became overjoyed.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cAn American!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Alright!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Awesome, dude!\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>We pounded gloved fists.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cYou got this, man.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I really wanted to be in his position, descending to Camp 2 in triumph.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>That will be you tomorrow.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3467\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3467\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.20.45.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3467 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.20.45-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"The two columns passing each other, one descending, the other headed up. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.20.45-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.20.45-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.20.45-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.20.45-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3467\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The two columns passing each other, one descending, the other headed up. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3480\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3480\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.21.03.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3480 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.21.03-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Many hands... many safety devices... one rope. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.21.03-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.21.03-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.21.03-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.21.03-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3480\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Many hands&#8230; many safety devices&#8230; one rope. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3481\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3481\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.22.04.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3481 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.22.04-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"The loads borne by these Sherpa look very heavy. Impressive and humbling to share the line with them. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.22.04-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.22.04-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.22.04-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.22.04-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3481\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The loads borne by these Sherpa look very heavy. Impressive and humbling to share the line with them. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Past the main knot of down-climbers, the route opened up and I thought I might be able to catch up with my friends in the lead\u2026 but it was not meant to be.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I felt perfectly fine, but not fine enough to unclip and pass those ahead of me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>No way.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This was a conga line, and I would force my rage into a bitter little ball and swallow it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I focused in an irrational way on the technique of the strangers around me:<em> Why don\u2019t these guys use the rest step?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/em>Instead of standing still and then sprinting for five steps and then stopping again, all they needed to do was pick a steady pace and stick with it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Lock the lower leg, bone on bone, for just a moment with each step and you ultimately go so much farther.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Mountaineering 101.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But no.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Also not in mountaineering 101: Smoking a cigarette at 25,400 feet.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But, that\u2019s what the guys ahead of me decided to do.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Fortunately, lighting up took a bit of effort in the wind, allowing me to pass and charge ahead.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3472\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3472\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.59.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3472 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.59-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"After the main group of descenders has passed, we approach the bottom of the Spur, where some teammates are sitting at a break. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.59-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.59-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.59-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.24.59-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3472\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the main group of descenders has passed, we approach the bottom of the Spur, where some teammates are sitting at a break. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">I reached two of our teammates, Nicky and Bob, resting with their Sherpa guides at the exact same spot where the ill climber had been.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In fact, I expected to see him lying there\u2026 but he was gone.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I realized that he must have been revived enough to walk down with assistance\u2026 I had passed him in the knot a few minutes earlier without realizing it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Awesome!<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Nicky saw me approach and raised her hand, waving in a friendly way.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>She sounded hale and strong, as always.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cHow ya doin\u2019 Doc?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cOK.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I took a few breaths.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cWhat flow rate are you at?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cTwo and a half.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cMe too.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This was good to hear.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Bob had just coughed up some snot and was getting back into his mask.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cIt\u2019s good to see you.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He sounded tired but optimistic.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cYou too,\u201d I replied.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And it was.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>After dealing with so many strangers I enjoyed being with my people again.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3473\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3473\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.26.26.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3473 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.26.26-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"There they are. Nice to see my buddies waving me in. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.26.26-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.26.26-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.26.26-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.26.26-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3473\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">There they are. Nice to see my buddies waving me in. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3474\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3474\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.28.32.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3474 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.28.32-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Hi guys. Note the perfect form and etiquette, seated above the trail with safety lines easy to pass. This is how it should be done, people! (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.28.32-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.28.32-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.28.32-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.28.32-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3474\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hi guys. Note the perfect form and etiquette, seated above the trail with safety lines easy to pass. This is how it should be done, people! (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3475\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3475\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.29.56.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3475 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.29.56-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"I signal to Pasang Kami that I would like to take a break here, too, with our team. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.29.56-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.29.56-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.29.56-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.29.56-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3475\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">I signal to Pasang Kami that I would like to take a break here, too, with our team. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">My teammates sat above the line, each tethered to it in an orderly fashion.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Pasang Kami and I decided to sit just past them, and thus clipped by each tether carefully.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cDon\u2019t mix up ascenders,\u201d said Bob in a dry joke as he watched me work.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At that time I was so beat tired that I was not even sure who was talking to me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It was slightly laborious work, and it required all my focus.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3476\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3476\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.31.50.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3476 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.31.50-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Clipping past my pals at the break below the Geneva Spur. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.31.50-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.31.50-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.31.50-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.31.50-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3476\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clipping past my pals at the break below the Geneva Spur. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">As we neared the end of the climbers on break, Pasang Kami became a bit impatient and helped me make the last two clips\u2026 but he moved my safety while I was still transferring my ascender.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cNow I\u2019m not clipped into anything.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That\u2019s no good.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Pasang Kami has climbed Everest multiple times, and he knows his stuff.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>For him, speed provided its own safety benefits.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He was not wrong\u2026 in the Icefall, for instance, we routinely unclip to keep the momentum going.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Up here, on a steep face with 3,500 feet of exposure, precision and care seemed worth the extra seconds to me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Especially after the day\u2019s prior events.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Up close, now that I was there in person, it became clear that the \u201cgentle snow field\u201d I had seen from below was anything but gentle.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This was a ferociously steep traverse!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In the flat light under cloud cover, it had looked deceptively moderate.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Regardless of how things may have looked from below, there was no way in hell that anyone in their right mind would unclip from the line here and \u201clie down in the snow.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I marveled at how illusory my perspective on this place had been just half an hour earlier.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In fact, it was just when I was thinking about this that two Sherpa climbers from another expedition unclipped and walked right in front of me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Their steps were confident, steady\u2026 and totally unprotected.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Can everyone please get up this mountain alive today?<\/em> I asked myself.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3477\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3477\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.35.13.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3477 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.35.13-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"The view from my seat at the break below the Spur, circa 25,500 feet high. Underfoot, beyond the narrow path, the Lhotse face stretches 4,400 feet down to the Cwm. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.35.13-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.35.13-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.35.13-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.35.13-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3477\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The view from my seat at the break below the Spur, circa 25,500 feet high. Underfoot, beyond the narrow path, the Lhotse face stretches 3,500 feet down to the Cwm. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3478\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3478\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.34.38.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3478 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.34.38-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Two strong, talented Sherpa climbers walk past us, totally unclipped from the mountain. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.34.38-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.34.38-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.34.38-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.34.38-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3478\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two strong, talented Sherpa climbers walk past us, totally unclipped from the mountain. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">I looked back at our progress so far: Camp 3 was a cluster of tiny tents in the distance.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The line of climbers descending was now dropping over the Yellow Band.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The weather was holding: winds were picking up a bit, but the sky was breaking into broad bands of blue, so the sun did not cook us alive. Only this last section, the Geneva Spur, separated us from the South Col.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>We were getting close.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">From this final break spot, the route pitched steeply up the Spur.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A knot of climbers was climbing it slowly, achingly slowly.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Let\u2019s get \u2018er done<\/em>.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3489\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3489\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00621.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3489 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00621-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Quick selfie at the break below the Spur. Temps have fallen, and frost is now forming on the mask, but not the intake or exhalation valve, so I'm all set. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00621-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00621-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00621-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00621-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3489\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quick selfie at the break below the Spur. Temps have fallen, and frost is now forming on the mask, but not the intake or exhalation valve, so I&#8217;m all set.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3490\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3490\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00624.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3490 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00624-800x456.jpg\" alt=\"Pasang Kami getting his pack in order moments before we leave the break to move up the Spur.\" width=\"800\" height=\"456\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00624-800x456.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00624-150x86.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00624-660x376.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00624-768x438.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3490\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasang Kami getting his pack in order moments before we leave the break to move up the Spur.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">The route crossed steeper and steeper terrain.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Eventually, the face was so steep that the trail was scarcely wider than my boot.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>To the left, the mountain fell away all the way down to the bottom of the funnel below the traverse, then to the Lhotse Face itself below that, and ultimately to the bergschrund, about 3,500 feet below.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>As we approached the steepest section of the Spur, I saw two Sherpa climbers begin to descend from the crest.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Holy cow, not now.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This would cause yet another traffic jam.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I looked at my watch: Already 11:20 AM.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Dammit.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/em>Glad I had turned the O\u2019s down, but we were probably still an hour from the South Col, maybe more with all this traffic, and I thought I needed to rely on this bottle through the night.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The first climber descended smoothly and steadily, but his partner seemed overwhelmed and exhausted\u2026 and was carrying a truly huge load.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Come on man, get your shit together.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Just as I thought this, he slipped onto his keyster and started sliding down the face in a sitting position.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>After a couple meters he jolted to a stop, amidst a cloud of snowdrift\u2026. <em>Wait, that\u2019s not snow\u2026 It\u2019s down from his suit!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/em>The poor guy had ripped himself a new one, so to speak, and a plume of his suit\u2019s lining was blowing along the winds of Everest, gone forever.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Clearly, he would be OK, and I started to relax.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Until I saw the oxygen cylinder launch from his kit and begin to tumble down the mountain.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It hit a rock band and launched horizontally into the air, not tumbling or spinning, just floating there in an upright position, then landed in a huge plume of powder and began to tumble over and over until it hit another patch of snow.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It slid and slid, slowly, so achingly slowly, towards a cliff.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I thought of our teammate whose foot was injured the prior day by an errant bottle slamming into him from the upper mountain.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cStop, stop, stop\u2026.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But, gravity never sleeps, and over the cliff it went.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cAh!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Stupid!\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I waved my hand in disgust, and continued up the trail. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>We were well to Lhotse Face climber\u2019s left, so the bottle would probably slide harmlessly to the Cwm and never be seen again.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But this was another sloppy moment on a sloppy day, and I thought, <em>This is no choss pile<\/em>.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3491\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3491\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00625.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3491 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00625-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Ang Pemba moving out from the break. Note that he, like all our climbing Sherpa on this rotation, uses no supplemental O2. Totally amazing. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00625-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00625-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00625-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00625-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3491\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ang Pemba moving out from the break. Note that he, like all our climbing Sherpa on this rotation, uses no supplemental O2. Totally amazing.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3496\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3496\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.39.27.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3496 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.39.27-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Ang Pemba, and Bob Lowry beyond, at the start of the steep section of the Spur. 24 hours later this would be the location of the greatest sadness of our expedition. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.39.27-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.39.27-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.39.27-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.39.27-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3496\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ang Pemba, and Bob Lowry beyond, at the start of the steep section of the Spur. 24 hours later this would be the location of the greatest sadness of our expedition. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3479\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3479\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.16.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3479 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.16-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"I wave my hand in disgust and disappointment as the empty bottle speeds down the face. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.16-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.16-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.16-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.16-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3479\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">I wave my hand in disgust and disappointment as the empty bottle speeds down the face. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3482\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3482\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.55.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3482 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.55-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"The oxygen cylinder vaults into the air and rockets down the face. In this photo it's the tiny black line at dead center. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.55-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.55-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.55-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.41.55-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3482\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The oxygen cylinder vaults into the air and rockets down the face. In this photo it&#8217;s the tiny black line at dead center. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Minutes ticked by while the climbers ahead of us proceeded very slowly.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Part of this was caused by the need for everyone to clip past the fallen climber, whose confidence was shaken but who was clearly perfectly fine, except perhaps for a sore tailbone and wounded pride.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>As I got closer to him I saw that he had been truly overloaded, and I sensed somehow that this was his first rodeo.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He did not want to make eye contact with us as we huffed and puffed past.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Pasang Kami offered some kind of encouragement in the Sherpa language, but it did not seem to have the desired effect.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3485\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3485\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.47.50.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3485 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.47.50-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Starting to make progress now, as the column begins to move up the Spur, clipping past the descending climber who slipped a few minutes earlier, and is taking a rest right on the line. 24 hours later this would be the location of the greatest sadness of our expedition. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.47.50-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.47.50-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.47.50-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.47.50-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3485\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Starting to make progress now, as the column begins to move up the Spur, clipping past the descending climber who slipped a few minutes earlier, and is taking a rest right on the line. 24 hours later this would be the location of the greatest sadness of our expedition. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3486\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3486\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.48.40.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3486 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.48.40-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"The narrow path leading up the Geneva Spur. On the left, the mountain drops away to the Cwm far below. On the far left, in the distance, Camp 3 is visible 2,000 feet below. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.48.40-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.48.40-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.48.40-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.48.40-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3486\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The narrow path leading up the Geneva Spur. On the left, the mountain drops away to the Cwm far below. On the far left, in the distance, Camp 3 is visible 2,000 feet below. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Finally, we reached the top of the steep section.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Perhaps a dozen more climbers sat there, waiting for us to clear the line so they could descend.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Behind them lay the great expanse of Everest\u2019s summit block, the Triangular Face, slashed with vertical snow-filled couloirs and horizontal dark rock bands.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A huge white plume blew away from its right side, soaring over Tibet.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The trail flattened out and curved around the crest of the Spur in a long, gentle arc.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>We made it.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was desperate for a break, but knew it was best to keep walking.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cPasang Kami, how much farther?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201c20 minutes,\u201d he said, clipping past an anchor fixed to the dark black rock of the Spur.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>20 minutes.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>You can do this.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Looking back I saw Ang Pemba and Bob approaching, and waved to them.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3502\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3502\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.50.04.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3502 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.50.04-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Above the Geneva Spur, a short distance into a traverse, I look back to check on my teammates, and wave. We are almost there!\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.50.04-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.50.04-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.50.04-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.50.04-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3502\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Above the Geneva Spur, a short distance into a traverse, I look back to check on my teammates, and wave. We are almost there!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3466\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3466\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.51.03.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3466 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.51.03-800x452.jpg\" alt=\"Approaching the South Col shortly after topping out on the Geneva Spur. (GoPro Screenshot)\" width=\"800\" height=\"452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.51.03-800x452.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.51.03-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.51.03-660x373.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/ScreenshotX2016-06-12X14.51.03-768x434.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3466\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Approaching the South Col shortly after topping out on the Geneva Spur. (GoPro Screenshot)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">As we got closer to the South Col, one final team approached, a group of ten climbers in red suits.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At this point it was 12:45 PM, and I wondered what might have led them to descend so late in the day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>If they had been Sherpa climbers, I would have suspected that they had supplied their camp at the South Col earlier that day, but they did not look like Sherpa to me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Rather, they were probably climbers coming down after summiting that same morning.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">After this last group of descending climbers, there was nothing between us except a few more steps up a very gentle slope.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>To our left, the whole Cwm opened up thousands of feet below.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Ahead, the last 3,000 feet of Everest itself.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Just above Camp 4, below the Triangular Face, lay a burly hill of blue ice cracked with crevasses that were themselves packed with pure white snow.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I wanted to soak in the beauty of the place, but I was knackered coming into the South Col, and needed to collapse into my tent and rest.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Almost there\u2026.<\/em><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3494\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3494\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00629.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3494 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00629-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Selfie while the other team passes. Everest in my goggles, complete with plume.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00629-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00629-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00629-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00629-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3494\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Selfie while the other team passes. Everest in my goggles, complete with plume.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3493\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3493\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00627.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3493 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00627-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"We decide to sit down while the team in red passes... the trail is narrow, and it's 5,400 feet straight down to the Cwm on the right. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00627-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00627-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00627-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00627-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3493\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">We decide to sit down while the team in red passes&#8230; the trail is narrow, and it&#8217;s 5,400 feet straight down to the Cwm on the right.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3492\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3492\" style=\"width: 533px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00626.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3492 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00626-533x800.jpg\" alt=\"Another team heading down from the South Col passes us on the traverse just beyond the top of the Spur. \" width=\"533\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00626-533x800.jpg 533w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00626-100x150.jpg 100w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00626-440x660.jpg 440w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00626-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 533px) 100vw, 533px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3492\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another team heading down from the South Col passes us on the traverse just beyond the top of the Spur.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Suddenly we were in camp.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I looked in vain for IMG\u2019s Eureka tents\u2026 <em>Where the hell are we?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/em>Our section of camp was at the far side of Camp 4.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Those last few steps seemed to take forever, not a good sign considering the fact that we were on level ground.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Josh McDowell was acting as emcee and traffic director.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I told him that I wanted to bunk with Cristiano so that I could perform neuro\u00a0checks in the night.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Initially he agreed, but then he took it back.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cSorry, I totally screwed up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>You are in the three-man over there.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><em>Three-man?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/em>\u201cI\u2019m happy to stay with Cristiano tonight.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cNope, you are over there.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Emily must be planning to stay with him and do the neuro checks herself.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I agreed and carried my pack\u2014which really was starting to feel heavy now\u2014the last few steps towards a three-man tent in the distance, the last and final tent on Mt. Everest that day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Who the hell is staying all the way over here?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/em>I had absolutely no idea who would be in that tent.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was tired enough that it did not matter, but I wondered who my tent mates would be\u2026 until I saw Kim and Steven\u2019s axes and crampons outside the tent.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>My friends\u2026<\/em> I allowed myself to smile.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cWasaaaaap!\u201d I shouted through the mask.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cPaul!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>You made it!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Hey buddy!\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Their greeting was so great to hear.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It dawned on me that they must have requested me for the three-man tent.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>My friends\u2026 my teammates<\/em>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>For the first time all day, I dared to relax a bit.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">The tent door opened and I saw the Hessians in their lair, already unpacked and moved in nicely.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cWe saved you the best spot, right in the middle.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cNice.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Thanks guys, let me get my sharps off and I\u2019ll be right there.\u201d<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3513\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3513\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07051.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3513 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07051-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Me, entering our tent at the South Col. (Photo: Steven Hess)\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07051-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07051-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07051-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07051-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3513\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Me, entering our tent at the South Col. (Photo: Steven Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3501\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3501\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00639.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3501 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00639-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Kim looks right at home at Camp 4, don't you think?\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00639-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00639-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00639-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00639-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3501\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kim looks right at home at Camp 4, don&#8217;t you think?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3516\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3516\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07053.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3516 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07053-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"No, this photo has not been retouched. Yes, her lips really were that blue. (Photo: Steven Hess)\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07053-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07053-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07053-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07053-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3516\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">No, this photo has not been retouched. Yes, her lips really were that blue. (Photo: Steven Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3517\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3517\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07054.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3517 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07054-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Savor the awesomeness... (Photo: Steven Hess)\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07054-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07054-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07054-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/DSC07054-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3517\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Savor the awesomeness&#8230; (Photo: Steven Hess)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Steven and Kim helped me move in and get the thermarest inflated, a bit of a slow-motion marathon given how hard I was working to breathe up there.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I got into my bag and got my kit organized.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>One pocket on the tent wall was for the stuff I would take the next day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My feet had been perfectly warm in the Olympus Mons that day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In fact, I had not installed the HotTronic warmers yet; I wanted my steps to be as light as possible, and so kept the inserts, cables, and batteries in my backpack.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Now it was time to get the inserts into the liners and thread the cables up to the chest compartment of my suit, where the battery packs would live that night on our push towards the summit.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">While I sorted through the gear, we talked about Cristiano, marveling at the miracle of his salvation on the Face, amazed that he had the gumption and strength to get right back and climb.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Almost as if on cue, Justin appeared in the vestibule, hunched over like a giant trying to enter a normal-sized house.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He was making the rounds, ensuring that everyone was doing well and getting ready for the departure.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Justin asked me what I thought about Cristiano climbing with us, and I told him it was amazing.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He asked what I thought of the decision to allow him to come up, and I told him my medical opinion was that it was \u201cfucking bullshit,\u201d but clearly I had been wrong, and Emily was right.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">We had a choice: Leave at 8 PM, 9 PM, or 10 PM.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Two of our teammates had chosen to leave at 8 already, but that somehow seemed too early to me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Looking back now, in light of the traffic debacle that happened later that night, I wish I had chosen an 8 PM departure.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But 9 PM seemed like the right way to go.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Kim, Steven, and I agreed: <em>9 PM it is<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Justin asked for my regulator, so that he could rig our second oxygen bottle.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was confused.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cThis is my regulator,\u201d I gestured to the setup I was breathing from.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cNo, your other regulator.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I saw it clearly: Lying on the floor of my tent in Camp 3, still attached to the cylinder I had shared with my tent mate.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cWas I not supposed to leave it there?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Justin just about flipped a gasket.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cI told you to bring it with you, to give it to your Sherpa!\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I had absolutely no recollection of hearing that, from either him or Josh, the previous day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I can scarcely describe the depths of my horror when I realized I had made this mistake.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>True, I had a regulator on the bottle I was using at the moment, and swapping it out on the route above would be OK.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But this was clearly NOT the plan our guides had in mind.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Pre-rigging a second bottle at the South Col was preferable\u00a0because it allowed us to look for subtle leaks in relative comfort and quiet, and to deal with them more easily.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In fact, during prior expeditions, IMG guides had discovered that pouring hot water onto the metal mounting stem would prevent such leaks, for reasons unknown\u2026 Hot water was in scarce supply on the route, thus the urgency of pre-rigging the apparatus at Camp 4.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Mind you, multiple bottle changes would happen up there, and some of these would have to involve swapping regulators\u2026 the point is that I had somehow missed an important instruction at Camp 3, and I felt terribly about it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>No matter how many times I replayed the prior day\u2019s briefing, I could not remember hearing this.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>What is wrong with my brain up here?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>What else have I missed?\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Justin handled this with remarkable aplomb, given that it was a very unexpected setback.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Later that afternoon a miracle occurred, and he located another regulator for my use.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I will never know where that regulator came from, but it mattered not: all I could do was to thank him profusely and promise to not make that mistake again.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">About an hour after I arrived at Camp 4, I headed outside briefly to take a leak, and to snap some photos.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The first thing I realized was that going anywhere outside was very difficult without supplemental o\u2019s.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>the next thing I found was that it really is a stunning place\u2026 alien and austere and scorched with solar radiation, a place to remember for the rest of my life.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The wind was steady but not too strong, and the sun overhead blasted down through a clear blue sky onto the pure white snow-covered ground.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I had always wondered how big it would be up here\u2026 Basketball court-sized?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Football-field sized?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In truth it was bigger than a football field, maybe a couple of them side by side.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Plenty of room to roam around\u2026 if you were crazy or ill enough to try.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3497\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3497\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00630.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3497 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00630-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Mt Everest, seen from the South Col, 25,900 feet. The climbing route is easy to see from here... It goes straight up the ice cliff, then the center snow-filled couloir, then doglegs right to the Balcony (snow-covered bump on the ridge), then follows the ridge to the South Summit (and then to the true summit, out of view here).\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00630-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00630-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00630-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00630-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3497\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mt Everest, seen from the South Col, 25,900 feet. The climbing route is easy to see from here&#8230; It goes straight up the ice cliff, then the center snow-filled couloir, then doglegs right to the Balcony (snow-covered bump on the ridge), then follows the ridge to the South Summit (and then to the true summit, out of view here).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3498\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3498\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00636.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3498 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00636-800x312.jpg\" alt=\"Panorama of Camp 4, Everest above. Josh McDowell sports a red suit on the right side of the picture.\" width=\"800\" height=\"312\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00636-800x312.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00636-150x59.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00636-660x258.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00636-768x300.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3498\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Panorama of Camp 4, Everest above. Josh McDowell sports a red suit on the right side of the picture.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3499\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3499\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00637.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3499 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00637-800x312.jpg\" alt=\"Looking to the right at Camp 4.\" width=\"800\" height=\"312\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00637-800x312.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00637-150x59.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00637-660x258.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00637-768x300.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3499\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking to the right at Camp 4.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3500\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3500\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00638.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3500 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00638-800x312.jpg\" alt=\"Looking still farther to the right. Below the Col, out of view, is the Kangshung face, and the mountainous plateaus of Tibet beyond that.\" width=\"800\" height=\"312\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00638-800x312.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00638-150x59.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00638-660x258.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00638-768x300.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3500\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Looking still farther to the right. Below the Col, out of view, is the Kangshung face, and the mountainous plateaus of Tibet beyond that.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">Back in the tent, I lost track of all the stuff I had set aside for the night\u2019s departure.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Where are my hand warmers?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That fresh pair of socks I wanted to use?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Those snack food baggies?<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\"><em>\u00a0<\/em> <\/span>I must have looked through the chaos of our tent floor for fifteen minutes, fighting off a rising sense of panic, before I remembered they were right there, a few inches from my head, in the tent wall pocket.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Jeezus, if my head wasn\u2019t screwed on up here\u2026.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">One last task was to adjust our oxygen masks.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Mine had bugged me a little on the way up, seemed a bit loose around the nose, leading to a bit of fogging in my goggles, and I wanted to be sure it would be tight enough that night.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I tugged steadily on the upper silicone straps\u2026 until a tiny plastic hook on my head strap snapped off, brittle due to the extreme cold, falling to the floor.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>\u201cWell that\u2019s not good.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cWhat?\u201d asked Kim.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cI just broke the head fastener, damn thing snapped right off\u2026. It\u2019s OK, still seems to fasten alright so long as I keep it taught.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I did not want to believe that my summit bid could be ruined by the breaking of such a tiny piece of plastic\u2014and, of course, it wasn\u2019t.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But, about 12 hours later, I would be cursing this little plastic hook, wishing that I had not broken it.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3488\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3488\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00640.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-3488 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00640-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Selfie of me and Kim at Camp 4. T minus 3 hours to liftoff....\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00640-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00640-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00640-660x440.jpg 660w, https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/DSC00640-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3488\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Selfie of me and Kim at Camp 4. T minus 3 hours to liftoff&#8230;.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p1\">I wanted to talk with Julie.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I needed to know that she was with me.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My text to her at 2 PM (1:15 AM Seattle Time): \u201cHi Darling, I am at C4 sharing a tent with Hessians.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Beautiful here.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Love U.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">No reply.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">An hour and a half later I tried again: \u201cHi dear.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I leave here 9 PM, hope to summit in under 12 hrs, if weather and traffic good.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Watch the Delorme.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Doubt I can text or call from summit, will try.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Still no reply, which is understandable given that it was 3 AM at home.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But the time difference did not register for me.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I tried once more, a few minutes later: \u201cLove you very much.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Happy and also eager to come home to you very soon.\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Did she even know that today was summit day?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I felt completely isolated from everyone at home, a terrible feeling.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This happens often during an expedition: I become convinced that my family does not miss me, or even realize I am gone.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And why should they?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Mountaineering is my thing, a supremely selfish hobby that pulls me away from them.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">My heart leapt when the InReach chirped: \u201cLove you!\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That was all I needed to hear.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cYou too!\u201d I replied.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I was glad to lend the device to Steven so he could text\u00a0his lovely new bride. \u00a0It was tough for me to be away from Julie, and we had been together for 28 years. \u00a0I could not imagine how crazy difficult this must have been for him, leaving only a couple weeks after getting hitched.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">The cheese tortellini MRE went down like a thick, tasteless, slightly warm, nauseating goo. \u00a0Every\u2014last\u2014morsel.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Just before tucking in I texted Jason in NYC: \u201cThat was no easy rest day\u2026 Easy terrain but 200 assholes on my line!! Crazy traffic.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Sharing a tent with the Hessians.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\u201cHaHa! \u2026 [obscene joke expurgated] \u2026 Business time tho.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Time for you to join the Summit Club. Take it home baby!!\u201d<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It was 6 AM in for him, and Jason and Ali had a new baby.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Back in the World I would never dream of texting someone at such an ungodly hour.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But here I was oblivious of the time difference.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In my mind, everyone back home was seeing what I was seeing, feeling what I was feeling\u2026 there was only one time zone, one reality, one existence: The South Col.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">While I fussed with my kit, over and again, making sure everything was perfect with the camera gear, battery system, satellite tracker, provisions, water, clothing, and safety systems, Kim quietly crushed candy on her phone.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>Dammit, Atomic Girl\u2026 why is this so easy for you?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And Steven\u2026 really?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Are you really snoring up here?<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Maybe if I were their age this would be less painful for me, too.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">We resolved to get at least a few hours of \u201csleep\u201d before departing.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>We were all in our suits, and Kim and I lay under my -40 bag, like a huge eiderdown.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It was plenty warm.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>When I closed my eyes, and tried to squeeze out the evening light filtering through the tent walls, I thought of the summit.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><em>After all this time, it\u2019s right there, just outside the door.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Waiting for me.<\/em><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I am an atheist, but Everest is holy to me, and being at the South Col was like the fulfillment of a sacred pilgrimage.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>That night, trying to sleep\u2014hypoxic, exhausted, and anxious\u2014something changed: the mountain took on a wicked persona.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I came for the first time to see the summit as a siren, calling me to be dashed upon her rocks.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/track\/0yj0lmXkwZo9OSWxKcvCOB\">Johnny Hollow\u2019s lyrics<\/a> haunted me:<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Come a little bit closer<br \/>\nSo I can see what you have done<br \/>\nI said come a little bit closer<br \/>\nLet me get a look at you<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Don\u2019t you know you want it, too?<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Do I make you uneasy?<br \/>\nI bet you\u2019d like to take a step back<br \/>\nI said do I make you uneasy?<br \/>\nI\u2019ll follow even if you look back<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Don\u2019t you know you want it, too?<br \/>\nDon\u2019t you know you want it, too?<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Come a little bit closer\u2026<br \/>\nCome a little bit closer\u2026<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">And I thought, <em>You can\u2019t intimidate me, you evil bitch.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>There\u2019s no way I\u2019m turning back now.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>After I came home, I was asked the same questions over and over again: Did you make the summit?\u00a0 Did you use oxygen?\u00a0 Would you do it again?\u00a0 And\u2026 How did you go to the bathroom?\u00a0 The answer to that last one depends on the phase of the expedition you have in mind, but on &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/10\/to-the-south-col\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">To the South Col&#8230;<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3466,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3430","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ascent","expedition-everest-2016"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>To the South Col... - OSM Adventures<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2016\/10\/to-the-south-col\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"To the South Col... - OSM Adventures\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"After I came home, I was asked the same questions over and over again: Did you make the summit?\u00a0 Did you use oxygen?\u00a0 Would you do it again?\u00a0 And\u2026 How did you go to the bathroom?\u00a0 The answer to that last one depends on the phase of the expedition you have in mind, but on &hellip; 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