{"id":928,"date":"2015-05-12T09:35:56","date_gmt":"2015-05-12T16:35:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/?p=928"},"modified":"2016-03-13T21:14:11","modified_gmt":"2016-03-14T04:14:11","slug":"lobuche-the-right-way","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/pottinger.net\/osm\/2015\/05\/lobuche-the-right-way\/","title":{"rendered":"Lobuche the Right Way"},"content":{"rendered":"

The weather looked good the following day for another summit attempt, so once again we gorged ourselves on a super lunch and then humped back up to Lobuche high camp\u2014for the third time.\u00a0 <\/span>We were loaded for bear, eager to knock this one off and turn our attention to Everest herself.<\/p>\n

\"LHC.<\/a>
LHC. We are ready to be done with this place….<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Our<\/a>
Our objective looks tantalizingly close…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"All<\/a>
All the comforts of home, including this latrine, which was padlocked shut. My multi-tool made short work of that…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Digging<\/a>
Digging in for a few hours rest before the summit push.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Taking<\/a>
Taking in the cold, cold sunset.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Word<\/a>
Word of the day: Optimism.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Enjoying<\/a>
Enjoying the view…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Ama<\/a>
Ama Dablam never sleeps.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"DSC03240\"<\/a>
Kantega and Thamsierku.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"DSC03273\"<\/a>
Himalayan alpenglow.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Justin<\/a>
Justin strikes a pose.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Mike<\/a>
Mike shows his beard envy of Blake.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Andy<\/a>
Andy grows a beard at his own pace.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim<\/a>
Kim is raring to go.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Fatima:<\/a>
Fatima: Let’s get this DONE.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"And<\/a>
And I agree.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Favorable conditions marked our trip to LHC, and we had plenty of energy to burn, as evidenced by the snow “person” built by team members with a much more\u2026 creative flair\u2026 than I could ever hope to muster.<\/p>\n

\"Things<\/a>
Things got a little strange up there. Lots of spare energy to burn, I suppose.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Again, to bed early.\u00a0 <\/span>Again, fueled by sherpa stew for dinner, and then eggs and porridge for 2:30 AM breakfast.\u00a0 <\/span>The idea is to summit early, so that the route is not too hot and sloppy on the way down.\u00a0 <\/span>Plus, this helps us avoid the clouds and prices that often happen in the afternoon.<\/p>\n

Walking at 4 AM, just as planned.\u00a0 <\/span>Beautiful conditions, with clear skies, a billion stars, a crescent moon on the rise, and virtually no wind.\u00a0 <\/span>Cold, but no too much.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>
A chilly, tough start. But, we are finally moving! (Photo: Blake Penson)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Up, up, up Lobuche.\u00a0 <\/span>We had studied the route carefully for days, and I thought I could predict what things would look like in real life.\u00a0 <\/span>Wrong again\u2026 the mountain was much bigger and steeper than I had imagined.\u00a0 <\/span>Just under 3,000 feet of gain is NOT a big deal at home, but at this elevation I certainly felt it.\u00a0 <\/span>Even a simple mantle move over a small rock band would just about lay me flat out panting for breath.\u00a0 <\/span>In some sections it was possible to get into a good rhythm, but often the conditions were varied enough that I had to vary my gait and breathing from step to step.\u00a0 <\/span>Good practice for the big E.<\/p>\n

\"DSC00898\"<\/a>
LC leads the line.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"DSC00901\"<\/a>
Blake, Phinjo, and Siva make good progress.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"I<\/a>
Following Andy and Kim. \u00a0I love it up here. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As the sun rose, marvelous views of the Khubu valley opened up.\u00a0 <\/span>Pheriche, Lobuche, Gorak Shep, and EBC all came into view below.\u00a0 <\/span>The Everest massif stood just across the valley, capped with a lenticular cloud that belied severe winds aloft.\u00a0 <\/span>This is Himalayan climbing!<\/p>\n

<\/a>
Summit of Everest hidden in lenticular clouds. It’s rippin’ up there.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sunrise also revealed a number of other climbers from different parties on the route, above and below us.\u00a0 <\/span>We were making great time, but had to cool it while other teams cleared the fixed lines above us.\u00a0 <\/span>There were often two ropes, including one of super high quality placed earlier by IMG sherpas, but we did not get \u201cdibs\u201d on this important resource.\u00a0 <\/span>Again, great training for E.<\/p>\n

\"Andy<\/a>
Andy rolls in to a break.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Quick<\/a>
Quick break while we wait for others to clear the line above.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"What<\/a>
What we don’t like to see… but, it is what it is. \u00a0(Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Steep terrain, soft powder to the mid-shin, light winds, ever-intensifying sunshine, some folks from other outfits with less experience or confidence on the lines\u2026 the morning had it all.\u00a0 <\/span>And, in the end, we topped out in just over 4.5 hours.\u00a0 <\/span>Our goal had been 6 hours, so this was super.\u00a0 <\/span>Happy celebrations at the summit for everyone, and special thoughts for me of home and my family, the reason I climb in the first place.\u00a0 <\/span>Frustratingly, no cell signal at the summit, though I did send a message via SPOT beacon.<\/p>\n

\"Everest<\/a>
Everest watches from across the valley. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"This<\/a>
This stuff is steep. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"We<\/a>
We are not alone up here…. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Rocks<\/a>
Rocks make things fun. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Kim<\/a>
Kim tops out nicely. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Andy<\/a>
Andy on the summit. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"One<\/a>
One of our amazing Sherpa guides. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Phinjo,<\/a>
Phinjo, Andy, and Justin are an amazing team of guides!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Blake<\/a>
Blake savors the summit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"So<\/a>
So does Fatima. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Happy<\/a>
Happy times at 20,000 feet. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"LC<\/a>
LC summits in style. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Siva<\/a>
Siva crushes it. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Loving<\/a>
Loving my Barkeater goggles. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Is<\/a>
Is this a photo of me or Justin? You decide… Note Kim’s pose in the background, nice.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Proud<\/a>
Proud to carry my lovely family to the summit. They are always with me!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"And<\/a>
And proud to bring these inspiring kids to the top, courtesy of the Shining Stars Foundation. Way to go, kids!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"IMG<\/a>
IMG Hybrid Team Awesome 2015. (Photo: Justin Merle)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I also used this climb as a chance to test out some new gear, including my Mt Everest Edition Barkeater goggles, which performed beautifully, as well as running my go pro 4K on helmet using a body-mounted battery charger, which worked fine but needs a bit more tweaking.<\/p>\n

\"Do<\/a>
Do I look like a teletubby with this on my head? Po. Call me Po.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Of course, the summit is just halfway home, and we needed to descend safely.\u00a0 <\/span>We got ready for the drop VERY quickly, in order to avoid getting stuck behind the same folks who had held us back on the way up.\u00a0 <\/span>Still, there were plenty of folks headed upwards as we went down, which gave us a great chance to practice passing people on the fixed lines.\u00a0 <\/span>Steep and deep, we had nice conditions for plunge-stepping and arm-rapping.\u00a0 <\/span>Of course, the sun emerged from behind Everest to blaze down on us, and the temperature shot through the roof.\u00a0 <\/span>By the time we reached high camp I felt like a rat drowning in its own sweat.\u00a0 <\/span>Juice and snacks awaited us, as well as a brief rest to organize our kits before the final drop to LBC 45 minutes below.\u00a0 <\/span>Pulling in there felt like a great victory, made even sweeter by the absence of other climbers in camp, meaning we got our own private tent for the night.\u00a0 <\/span>I slept soundly, and happily.<\/p>\n

\"LHC<\/a>
LHC greets us, complete with hot pineapple tang and the promise of shade. Direct sun made this descent a scorcher!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

See our summit and descent here:<\/p>\n