We predicted that descending the Lhotse face would be much easier than climbing it had been.  This proved to be true: my ascent took just under 11 hours, and the total descent was just over 4 hours.  I am convinced that if traffic had not been so horrendous on the route, we would have made … Continue reading Drop Like a Stone →

Circa 5 AM we started out towards the bergschrund in clear skies and cold, cold temperatures.  I began at the head of the pack, eager to make a good showing.  But, I knew better, because this would put me at risk of lung irritation.  Emily Johnston called me on it, as expected: “You need to … Continue reading Face the Face →

I slept poorly that night, sinuses filling constantly with bloody discharge, and cough triggering whenever I rolled from side to side (I am strictly a side sleeper).  Plus, my ribcage hurt like crazy whenever I coughed or rolled over… in summary, not a great night.  BUT, the comforts of Camp 2 were alluring (meal tent, … Continue reading Slow Down and Wait →

The route through yesterday’s collapse was repaired circa 9 AM…. We really made the right choice by turning around!  Today’s plan was identical to yesterday’s: Walk out of camp at 2:30 AM, head up the icefall, and make it to Camp 1 a short time after the sun hits the glacier.  Based on how good … Continue reading Happy Birthday →

Our day began as planned.  Because my cough was triggered by deep breathing, I decided to walk extra-slowly today, in hopes of keeping my lungs under control.  Thus, I chose to leave an hour earlier than standard departure (2:30 AM instead of 3:30 AM).  This may not sound like a big difference, but we are … Continue reading Spinning on Ice →